was stopped on my driveway, in Drive and the bugger just scut out. It won't start again. the engine turns over fine and there is spark. I have checked the fuel cutoff switch and it is fine.
I was low on fuel and on a 10 deg slope. I have since put another 10 Liters in it but and its now on level ground but it just turns over and won't fire.
Could it be the fuel pump needs priming ?
Any help much appreciated.
digitaldunk
Is the fuel pump actually running?? - if not check the fuel pump relay under the other seat.
cheers tom
I got some good info here
in article + snipped-for-privacy@mdeng.demon.co.uk, marc at snipped-for-privacy@mdespamblockng.co.uk wrote on 18/1/2004 4:49 pm:
We have had the fuel pump go on the Discovery, efi engine, some time ago. It didn't actually give up completely at once though. Just kangarooed down the road to the garage. If its like the ones they have on the Discovery of about that time it's in the petrol tank, which we accessed from the boot area. We have also had a problem where for no apparent reason the Discovery stopped. It was low on fuel at the time, and even with several cans of petrol, couldn't get it going. One of Bruce's first repairs to one of the Land Rovers was to find the cause. This had happened not long after the replacement fuel pum had been fitted. On investigation the fuel filter was in a right state and completely blocked up. This was replaced and the car started first time.
"digitaldunk" schreef in bericht news:hpkOb.17752$ snipped-for-privacy@news02.tsnz.net...
Never heard of a fuel cutoff switch, but is the fuel pump actually working? (just crawled from underneath the Ruster myself, looking for everything but the obvious, and guess what...)
Not that I know of, but the specialists will be here soon. Good luck
Are you getting a spark on all cylinders? I'd personally suspect the electrics over the fuel in most cases - trace the spark right to each cylinder. I recently had eactly this on my Disco and having faffed with amplifiers and so on found it to be the rotor arm at fault. Unless they are new I'd swap the cap and rotor before doing anything else.
However, when I had problems with fuelling on the 101 (which at that time had an in-tank pump) I had to test the pump.
Two things to ascertain- i) is the pump knackered ii) is the pump getting any juice from the electrics
Having never really heard the pump running, I didn't know what to listen to. So I took a 12 battery and put it across the terminals on the pump. I think the Rangie has a Facet pump (as does my 101 now) rather than an in-tank pump. That will tell you what the clicking of the pump shoud sound like. If you get no click your pump is shot.
If you do get a good clicking, try firing it up with the battery still across the terminals. If it fires then you have a problem with the power feed to the pump. The 101 has a cut-off on an oil pressure switch so the pump doesn't run if oil pressure goes too low - a common cause of problems on the 101, not sure if this is included on the Rangie.
BTW - is this EFI or carb? 91 suggests EFi, but I'm not sure.
If you have run low on fuel, and don't run low very often, you could have pulled some crud from the bottom of the tank into the fuel lines / injectors / carbs etc. So in that case pull a fuel line and see if you get flow when the pump is running.
Should be able to hear it ticking whenever the ignition is on whether or not the engine's running, if its wired up the same as the early ones. Try giving it a (gentle) belt with a hammer while the ignition's on. Normally starts a knackered pump up again. The pumps are quite prone to sticking if you get crap going through which is quite possible given that your tank's run low.
Andy
You should hear a short buzz(1-2 seconds) from the pump when you first switch on the ignition.
It is quite easy to hear is it running or not. My, and my friends pump keeps light BZZZZ-sound when running...
hi,
You could unhook the fuel line at the injector rail and place it in a glass jar. Turn the engine over, short and quick , if you have no fuel in the jar...fuel delivery problem. I know it's primitive, but it works. If your not getting fuel it would be the relay, enertia switch, fuel pump, or (as in a lot of cases) the fuel pump wiring harness that plugs into the fuel pump.
joe myers
In article , Andy Warner writes
On an EFi engine the pumps don't tick.
They are very difficult to hear if there is any back ground noise at all.
The submerged pump that you have is prone to failure.
If there is no fuel getting to the fuel rail then check for power at the pump with a lamp rather than a meter.
If there is no power where there should be then check the wiring just behind the passenger seat (RHD) this is the connection for the Inertia/Fuel cut off switch they can develop a high resistance due to corrosion caused by damp under the carpets.
Happy hunting
ok,
no problem....
first off to check the fuel pump..... It is difficult to hear in the car if you don't know what your listening for or if there is other noise around . You will only hear the pump run until there is enough pressure in the fuel rail, then it will switch off automatically, untill ther pressure drops. Typically it will run for a few seconds when you switch the ignition on. Don't actually crack the thing.. start cranking and you won't be able to hear it. The easiest test is to get some one else to switch the ignition while you lie under the back end...with your ear close to the tank, you will hear a whirring sound if it is running.
However what you really want to know is if the fuel is in the cylinders.... So you can kind of kill to birds with one stone if you crack it over for 60 seconds or so and pull one of the plugs... (NOte this only works on a cold engine, if the engine is hot the fuel will evaporate before you have time to pull the plug) it should be wet with fuel... and I mean wet... This will test not only the fuel pump but also the whole fuel system, and crucially that the ecu is telling the injectors to fire...
let us know how you get on...
tom
HTH:
My 1988 RR 3.5 Auto EFI stopped in a similar way last year - plenty of oomph and sparks everywhere but refused to start. The fault was traced to the fuel pump in the tank. This was confirmed by walloping the centre, underside of the tank with a fist or rubber mallet. Having done this, the pump started and so did the engine.
Replacement pump was obtained from Autopost at a FRACTION of the cost of one from RR - difference? one is in a white box, the other is in a white box with green printing.
BOL
Richard
My 1988 RR 3.5 Auto EFI stopped in a similar way last year - plenty of oomph and sparks everywhere but refused to start. The fault was traced to the fuel pump in the tank. This was confirmed by walloping the centre, underside of the tank with a fist or rubber mallet. Having done this, the pump started and so did the engine.
Replacement pump was obtained from Autopost at a FRACTION of the cost of one from RR - difference? one is in a white box, the other is in a white box with green printing.
BOL
Richard
I have had this problem with two 1990/1 Range Rovers now. Land Rover changed the design of the fuel pump at the time that they made all the changes to anti-roll bars and high filler neck. The older style really suffers from corrosion on the connection for the earth to the fuel pump. You have to be really careful not to pull the connector off the pump body when removing to check. I resorted to soldering a wire back on to the tag since it was not going to hold a spade terminal. Unfortunately the screws that hold the pump in place usually have rusted so you may have to work 'in-place'. If you are really unlucky then the pump body will have corroded all around the terminal and its a replacement pump [sorry for the doom].
The newer pump does not suffer so badly but still had a bad connection. It is easier to get the pump out though to work on it.
Hope this helps - let the group know.
Nick
Thanks for all the help.
I took the access panel off and got to the pump no problems. all the connectors looked ok and the earth had a large amount of silicon around it which protected it very well. like new when I pulled it off. I couldn't hear anything from the pump. Didn't bother to check for fuel flow in the engine as pretty sure it wasn't going. The pump and connections all looked in good shape so I figured it was and internal pump issue (brushes or worse) . As I drive on a beach of black iron sand alot, there was a heap of it in the tank depression which would fall into the tank if I pulled the pump.
Not having an air gun to blow it out I decided to get it towed to a cool guy I found up the road in the country here on the west coast of the north Island, New Zealand. now I want to by his amphibious 6 wheeled armored transporter he has for sale !
Thanx
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