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Aluminium corrosion ?

THEN....

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There ya go ! :)) ......Thanks for the info P.Pete.

I was going to drop into the local place where I buy it to find out some 'background' info in the light of the probs outlined above.... but you've covered it.

Sorry about the confusion Bob and Hirsty. It hadn't occurred to me that 'Penetrol' might have a 'name change' when sold in your part of the world !!

As well, there's a product sold down here in Oz called "Lanotec" ( made in QLD)..... it's based on 'lanolin' (from sheep's wool) . On accounts I've heard it _is_ fantastic for corrosion protection, but it's about _four_ times the price of 'Penetrol', so I've stuck with the Penetrol. And, as I've related, ( for me) Penetrol _works_, over a long period.---- I might add that I live just a short walk from coastal salt water which crumbles roof gutterings in just years !! ( Took all my guttering off years ago, a few little modifications for drainage and I got away from that one !! :)) ) ... My trucks 'sit' in this environment, but Pen. seems to work well !!

Good luck with your stuff ( of whatever name in your part of the world !! ) .

.... frodo.

Reply to
frodo
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"frodo" wrote .

Thanks for mentioning it at a very fortuitous time, just about to start sorting out the 90's paintwork having check most of the oily bits. Now I can get some to sort out those doors and the painted steel bits that on the S111 are galvanised.

Reply to
Bob Hobden

Steve and other Land Rover fans and fanatics:

The last few days we have been having fun kicking around the idea of cathodic protection in another thread over at sci.engr.metallurgy.

The idea of automotive cathodic protection is a fatally flawed concept, since you don't have a good way to protect the surface unless you almost completely coat it (which is what is done with zinc on auto body steel panels). See specifically:

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which points out that you have a nearly impossible task to get the current to go everywhere you want it to, unless you keep your car buried in damp soil or dunked in salt water. You also could start at the more general Corrosion Doctors heading of
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a longer discussion which will tell you that what you want to dois to

  1. keep the drain holes clean
  2. keep the little nicks you can see on the surface coated
  3. coat the inner surfaces you can't see (if you know what you are doing!)

In fact, your aluminium probably is helping to sacrificially protect the steel but you wish it would not. If you coat with an inert barrier, then you had better coat the cathode (the steel) as well as the aluminium (the anode). Otherwise you may wind up with a small anode area and a large cathode area, which is not a good situation.

Texas Instruments spent a lot of money doing research on automotive cathodic protection years ago, and wrote up a technical paper saying that cathodic protection was not practical. If it had been, then they would gleefully have sold all the auto companies heaps of integrated circuit control systems and impressed current anodes to do it (and made even larger heaps of money).

Pittsburgh Pete

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Reply to
Pittsburgh Pete

Pete,

Thanks very much for all your contributions to this thread. Interesting to see helpful inter-group traffic !

Steve

Reply to
Steve Taylor

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