Clonkety clonk

On or around Thu, 11 Aug 2005 18:18:34 +0100, "Dom J" enlightened us thusly:

check the UJs in the proshafts and the CV joints in the front axle, also maybe splines in the driving members on any hub - I forget which of these are dodgy, but some are.

On the 110 I used to have, it made not so much of a clonk as a bloody great clang, if you went from F to R too quickly. Eventually decided that most of this was wear in the front end of the transmission, and subsequently replaceing on CV joint which started going clonkityclonk at full lock made it better.

Our M reg does the same, has since we have had it, over 5 years now. our last range rover was the same too. If nothing is badly worn you may find its just a little back lash on each bit which adds up to a big clonk. I find that when changing gears, foot hard on the brake and change slowly, pausing a second between each shift helps a lot. Richard

When you drive inevitably you get transmission windup due to the wheels travelling different distances the diffs take out most of this but you still get some loading, when you change gear some of this is released and then the slack is taken up thats when you get the clonk its down to that little bit of play in the components. If you want to get mucky delect neutral and set the range selector to N as well - lie under the car in front of the rear diff now grasp the prop shaft then twist clockwise and anti clockwise you should feel the play and hear a gentle clonk its not really a worry Derek

so Dom J was, like...

My RRC did that when I got it and was still doing it two years later when I sold it. No better, no worse.

"They all do that, Sir."