Compressor - would this work????

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I got a 12v one from a Total garage whilst on holiday. £4.50, Blows up tyres a treat and comes air the air bed etc plastic valve adapters.

Not worth messing around with IMHO.

Lee D

In news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com, Jon blithered:

A word or two of caution, 1st. environmental damage is possible by release of CFCs into the atmosphere, 2nd the compressor in your average fridge is a sealed unit, its only librication comes from the fliud it is compressing, I very much suspect plain air will not provide sufficient lube nor cooling so I'd think it'll fail in your suggested configuration rather rapidly. You might have more luck with one from an industrial cold room or the like but then cost will be back up with the dedicated tyre pumps. Alternatively a defunct mobike engine?

Quick search found this one at Towsure

It's not £4.50 but it's a starts.

Lee D

ok, perhaps wasnt such a good idea - I guess £12.95 for towsure one will be more than ok for occasional use.

Thanks.

you cold use a crap cheap 12v compressor connected to a receiver that will fill up slowly and then you have a lot of air on tap. This could be connected to a pressure switch which would shut it off when it reached the required pressure, it could also be on a timer so the crappy compressor does not overheat.

Regards John

in article 4148428c$0$41963$ snipped-for-privacy@ptn-nntp-reader03.plus.net, GbH at Geoff snipped-for-privacy@IEE.ORGasm wrote on 15/9/04 14:24:

Just out of intrest I used a fride "motor" for a couple of years to power my airbrush with no real problem but, as pointed out , at £4.50 why bother with the hastle.

IIRC they don't use much power when actually running but draw quite a bit of power (probably in the order of 1000W) when starting up.

1. Starting load would require an inverter in the 1500VA range - this would cost more than a good 12v compressor.
2. Speed should be OK
3. Pressure should be OK

But..... These sealed units rely on the refigerant for lubrication. This could be bypassed by adding an oiler and the an oil trap on the air line - but it starts to get complicated, doesn't it? Release of the refrigerant to the atmosphere is not a good idea (adds to stratospheric Flourine ions that degrade the ozone layer that reduces UV at the surface), but it probably happens in the case of most scrapped refrigerators. The most practical application along these lines is the use of an older type of car air-con compressor driven off the engine - some of these apparently run for a long time without lubrication. JD

The Tecumseh 2 cylinder A/C compressors commonly found on older American V8's have their own spearate sump for lubrication and work really well in this application without the need for auxiliary oiling.

In article , Lee_D writes

Likewise. I have one in each vehicle. SWMBO has the posh one - with the switch in the cable. They benefit from being stripped and oiled from time to time, as the construction is crude, but then again, given what they cost, it's hardly worth it...

Regards,

Simonm. (who does mend things anyway, as it's kinder to the environment)

Thanks - these would be the ones i was thinking of, but couldn't remember details. JD

We have our refrigeration repairs scrubbed out by the local refrigeration engineer, who will evacuate all the old CFC and recover it into a tank for destruction or reprocessing. Costs me about a fiver a time.

Steve

Hi

Only 3 concerns nothing like looking on the bright side

Will it work

in one word no

1) it will use more than 150w 2) the compressor needs oil 3) the compress valves wiil leak because they will rust,, air has water in it 4) I could go on

John ------------------------------------- O C Outdoor

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There's lots out there - search for "on board air". One of the advantages of going down this route is that get volume - something rather lacking in the cheap and nasty electric solutions. Try these for a start:

You can also find stuff about using Sanden compressors - but I've lost the links.

David

No this will not work. You will not be able to get CFM's desired.

I had a similar idea and fabed together a "York" air compressor. I picked the compressor up at a salvage yard for $25.00 US. This was a common auto/truck A/C compressor; from the Porsche 911 to a American Ford truck this was the choice compressor. The piston is lubed in its own oil bath; I used 30W dino oil. I've had many years of trouble free service.

Do a Google search on "onboard air compressors." You will find many DIY York installs. It worked for me!

Good Luck!

these might be of interest...

item 2490028538 on ebay & some light reading...

(it's on a J**P, butdon't see why it couldnt be modified to run in a landy). rav

Ok, this looks like the road i want to go down. mechanical compressor, belt driven.

All the reading i have done from the links suggested (+more) indicate that the 10 cu in York Compressor is the one to go for. Lots of references to American cars with this unit in but no definate references to UK cars...

Anyone know what car's these units came in?

Also, are the Sanden units "as good"? If so what UK cars are these in?

Thanks J>>>>The most practical application along these lines is the use of an older