defender swivel balls

Not necessarily. No vent plus too much oil equals major leak. Too little but still wet enough to reach the CV equals no problem.

Huw

Reply to
Huw
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On or around Mon, 7 Jun 2004 21:25:16 +0100, "Huw" enlightened us thusly:

I did wonder whether that's why there's a leak on my LH swivel. Nothing obvious wrong with the housing or the seal, and no detectable play in the bearings. The part-history that came with it had a comment on a recent bill for "fill N/S swivel with grease"...

Reply to
Austin Shackles

"Huw" schreef in bericht news:40c4320d snipped-for-privacy@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com...

What is the advantage of using grease i.s.o. oil? Just "no leaks" and hence "always topped up"? Or is there another hidden advantage?

Up to now I've used oil and always found the level ok. I might change to grease if there's an advantage. But what grease to use and how much? I suppose at the moment of filling the swivel housing one has to insert a certain quantity of grease as the filler/level plug looses the "level" function. Right?

I guess there is a disadvantage when one wants to renew the grease at the moment of regular maintenance as also the drain plug lost it's function. Right?

I use gaiters on mine that should protect them. But it's also a bit harder to inspect for rust.

Rgds,

Jan.

109 SIIA 2¼Petrol 1965
Reply to
JKoning

On or around Tue, 8 Jun 2004 09:15:22 +0200, "JKoning" enlightened us thusly:

supposed to be "fit and forget". It's less likely to leak, I guess. It

*does* leak, a bit. it's not a substitute for swivel seals.

the grease comes in a sachet, part no. STC 3435, from LR or other dealers. One sachet (some pattern stuff comes in squeezy bottles) per side.

best bet is to put the sachet in a bucket of very hot water afore opening it, this makes it more fluid and easier to squirt in.

yer not supposed to need to renew the grease, that's the point.

as to whether in overall terms it's *better*, I dunno. It's only the same approach that all other CV joints have, 'cept they mostly have gaiters instead of swivel housings.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Sorry mate, Charlotte was WELL ahead of you with that quip... ;-)

Reply to
Mother

Don't tell me, she's the one who'll be wielding the torch....

Alex

Reply to
Alex

"Austin Shackles" schreef in bericht news: snipped-for-privacy@4ax.com...

I see the point now. Besides less maintenance I like the certainty the swivel stays "topped-up" even if the swivel seal would fail. You would'nt happen to know what the bulk equivalent of STC3435 is? Some Moly or other kind? I've collected plenty cans over the years. Filling qty. is 0.6Lbs to 0.77Lbs various sources say.

Anyway, l'll make notes about the grease alternative so the manual reminds me at next schedule rather than memory as over the years it adopted LR like properties, leaky you could say :-)

Rgds,

Jan.

109 SIIA 2¼Petrol 1965

Reply to
JKoning

I suspect that the grease alternative is not suitable for series vehicles which do not have CV joints and, if memory serves, need some splash lubrication.

Huw

Reply to
Huw

Be aware also that the early 90/110's use the same Railko bush setup as the series motors and they too WILL suffer from premature bush and upper pin wear with grease. Have heard of top pins being drilled for a grease nipple if filling swivel with grease, give them a pump or 2 every couple of months to prevent premature wear. Probably not a bad idea regardless of whether using oil or grease! Badger.

Reply to
Badger

On or around Wed, 9 Jun 2004 14:17:24 +0100, "Badger" enlightened us thusly:

doesn't the grease get thin enough when warm to get thrown around? I'd've thought it would.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

setup

drilled

Doesn't really get much warmer than ambient in the outer axle region unless you drive through hot water to hub depth.

Huw

Reply to
Huw

On or around Wed, 9 Jun 2004 20:26:16 +0100, "Huw" enlightened us thusly:

doesn;t it pick up heat from the brakes, though?

Reply to
Austin Shackles

us

premature

wear.

grease!

region

The brakes are their own heat sink and hardly likely to get all that bulk of hub and the oil within, warm. In any case most LR of the age we are concerned with here are hardly likely to get their brake discs or drums more than warm themselves, let alone present a fire hazard ;-)

Huw

Reply to
Huw

On or around Wed, 9 Jun 2004 20:58:36 +0100, "Huw" enlightened us thusly:

true. but discs especially can get your wheel noticeably warm, in heavy braking scenarios. Get drum brakes that hot and you're probably in trouble anyway.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

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