DIFFLOCKS

Putting an ARB locker in a Rover rear diff is like sticking your private parts into a mincer - it's only going to give you untold grief - the Rover half shafts are just not up to it.

ARB do a locker for the salisbury diff - it works quite well as the whole setup is almost indestructible.

You prabably want a lockrite. I've found they are best in the front diff - in 2WD with the FWH disengaged they do absolutely nothing, but in the slippery stuff they are pretty good. The problem with fitting them to the rear is that they rattle when cornering and cause understeer in the wet.

A Defender with a centre diff lock is no better than a series in 4x4.

Even 235/85's are a bit narrow for sand. I'd be looking at some

31/10.5R15's with the pressure dropped to about 15psi for sand work (less if you run tubes in them). That setup works well for me.

What makes you say that? I thought defenders couldnt get crossaxled?

They have better suspension travel before they get cross axled, but they cross axle just as well as a Series (or a Lada Niva) :-)

As others have indicated, a diff lock with a Rover diff is not recommended - the axles will break.

If your major concern is sand, then a diff lock is fairly low on the list of requirements. The major factors in progressing through sand are driving technique and tyre pressure. The main advantage of wide tyres is the ability to use lower pressures safely, and for this reason low profile tyres should be avoided. Also, apart from pressure, the tyres that work best will be the ones with the largest diameter and smoothest tread.

(speaking from two years in the Simpson Desert) JD

Coil sprung LRs with their softer, long travel suspension will dig a wheel quicker and deeper into sand when you get stuck compared with a leaf sprung LR. It will of course be more comfortable while doing so! All we ever used in my time in desert seismic exploration (Libya, Egypt, Oman) were standard 109 LRs with standard wheels and Michelin

7.50x16 XS tyres (with tubes). The XS is a very good sand tyre, will run at low psi and has very flexible side walls. Great for flotation over sand, but not good in mud or rocky ground because of the relatively weak side walls. Forget about diff locks etc, they're just more to go wrong in the middle of nowhere, and if you DO need them on your trip you shouldn't be going alone. A second vehicle with a good rope is always the quickest way of getting unstuck.

Gordon

What you want is a new Rangie :-)

They were doing demo drives at Billing and you could see part of the course they were using. There was a section where they deliberately cross axled it so they could show off thet traction control (or whatever it has).

Very impressive!

Who sells Lockrites i cant find any uk places ..

New UJ's may do it - there may be a groove worn inside the old ones at the angle they used to run. Failing that wedges under the diff housing (check that the caster angle remains within spec) or a double cardan front prop-shaft.

So if it is the change in angle of the props then how do i cure it ?

Or as my wife pointed out, "rolling" the diff can be very effective.

Steve

ie. wedges under the housing (if leaf sprung, or new radius arms if coil sprung) but you need to keep an eye on what you've done to the caster angle or they steer really badly.

Have you looked at Maxidrive? I have rover diffs with Maxidrive lockers and axles works fine. To quote the site "A locked diff can transmit much more torque into an axle and for this reason All front and rear 'Rover' type diff and Salisbury diff kits include new axles. These axles are made from aviation quality nickel chrome manganese steel - AMS6418 (HYTUF). "

axles.(seems

I'd try new UJs first. The bearings and spiders do wear, and if you're still within the original design limits for suspension height the other stuff is pretty well pointless.

I'd have thought the cost relative to the value of the vehicle would make it un-economic anyway. Another thought for you - asking questions is a great way to learn and we're all learning but the question itself suggests that maybe you need to develop your knowledge of landies generally and also of off-road driving techniques??

How about spending some of the money on a decent course covering the vehicles and techniques? As Gordon says above, unless you're going into some seriously extreme place you wont need diff-locks and if you are going to such extreme places you shouldnt be on your own anyway, with or without lockers.

Have fun - Mike.