disco1 removing track rod ends

is there a trick to getting the track rod ends off. in the process of doing the swivel on mine i split the boot on the one that goes to the steering box. local supplier does not sell just the boots so i got a new track end, undid the clamp and tried to undo the ball joint but it was stuck solid. applied some heat to it an it still would not move, in the end i took the boot of the new track rod and fitted it to the old. never had any problems before on the euroboxes i have owned, they just had a lock nut securing the track end. looking at how landrover do it, it looks like water can get in where the clamp is so its no wonder i can not move it.

paul

Reply to
Paul
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On or around Mon, 19 Sep 2005 16:20:16 +0100, "Paul" enlightened us thusly:

loosen clamps, spray releasing agent (plugas, ferexample on the bit where the slot is. best bet is a big pipe wrench with the TRE still secured in the arm.

if it won't go (and you can apply quite a lot of force without damaging it) then you have in the end to heat it. Oxy-acetylene, get it seriously hot... Take it apart, clean threads, use copper grease on threads when re-assembling.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

Fit new track rods :)

Never seen a straight track rod come off anyway.

Reply to
Niamh Holding

On or around Tue, 20 Sep 2005 13:08 +0100 (BST), snipped-for-privacy@4x4cymru.trapping.co.uk (Niamh Holding) enlightened us thusly:

that's another option, of course - they're not that pricey and at least you can do what LR never did and lube the bugger properly with copper grease on assembly.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

When else is a good time to use copper grease? I typically use anti-seize with good results.

Reply to
Jack

On or around Tue, 20 Sep 2005 23:21:07 GMT, "Jack" enlightened us thusly:

well, any sort of anti-sieze. and I spose, yes, you only use it on assmebly...

Reply to
Austin Shackles

As & when appropriate :)

Reply to
Niamh Holding

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