Fairy Capstan Winch.

A fairy winch? Do you mean a Fairey winch, or perhaps a fairy *wench*? Mounting a fairy wench on a series one is something you might get help for.

Stupid me! Ok for the picky replace all the Fairys in my first post with the Fairey's in Ian's post please.

I've just emailed you some capstan winch fitting instructions in a PDF in case they might be of some use, so check yer email. Don't think it's a fairey but claims to conform to the standard land rover fittings for the winches.

Ian Rawlings wrote: or perhaps a fairy *wench*?

Or even a big strapping Fairey wench ? Not a girl you'd like to pull.

Steve

On or around Thu, 26 Jul 2007 01:55:00 -0700, Rory enlightened us thusly:

I trust you've got the bit that connects it to the front of the engine.

engine.

IIRC from my Series11A days it was a special 'starter dog' that had a slot cut radially across it's face that engaged with pegs in a spring loaded square section telescopic drive shaft, and the original starter dog screwed onto the front of the winch. .... but it's a few decades ago now and things are a bit misty

AWEM

It is complete, well as complete as it needs to be to be able to fit it and get it working, not necessary all original parts ,but enough so it will work

Hi Rory I've got one fitted on my 86" series1.

This is the type I've got-

If your winch is the same model as mine, there is a small problem. These were made for Series2/2a/3 engines that are closer to the front crossmember than the Series1 engine. So the winch drive shaft will be about

3/4inch short if fitted to a S1. I had to lengthen mine.

It all depends on which winch and which engine you have.?

Cheers John

The Fairey (actually, an MAP which became Fairey) I had came with an adjustable length drive shaft. Had no trouble fitting it to my Series 1, with the 2.0 litre engine. Getting the rivnuts was the hardest part.

Don't bother with Rivnuts (do want to trust them with a x thousand pound pull?) just weld a bit of angle to the front cross member. Unless of course you're looking for absolute originality as opposed to something you can use.

When I got my winch/wench the drive shaft had been lengthened by a bit of bolt welded into the middle bit; looks horrible and isn't straight but it works quite happily. It doesn't go round that fast so balance isn't a problem and the splined(?) ends take care of the mis- alignment.

If you are going to use the winch for real you will find a hand throttle useful and I strongly suggest an emergency stop button somewhere on the front of the vehicle where you can hit it if, heaven forbid, you get tangled up in the rope.

I also strongly suggest you check the shear pin: if it is steel it is for using the starting handle ONLY. It should be brass. If it is steel, the next weakest link in the train is the drive pin through the bollard and if that breaks the bollard free-wheels. Nasty if you have a serious load on. Ask me how I know!

On the subject of shear pins, does anyone know where to get good ones, the ones I got years ago are useless compared with the steel pin it originally had!

If you're in Kent/Sussex you're welcome to come and look at mine. (on an 86).

Assuming you have the three pin driving dog be aware that you can't change the fan belt without taking all the bracketry off the front of the engine.

Gordon

If it's the Fairey5300 the brass shear pins are 5/32" diameter (.156")

If I shear one off, I just drill a 5/32" hole through the threaded top bit, and soft solder a short length of 5/32" brass rod in place.

Easy Peasy...Job Done.

So don't throw away those broken tops.

Cheers John

And only a few minutes work to make one (or more)from scratch if you have a little lathe.

I find a T-handled hand throttle & emergency stop button on the radiator panel very useful too - hand throttle is just linked via a cable to the carby, with friction provided by an old valve spring (first thing that came to hand on the workshop floor). I find the infernal hand-throttle useless for winching as I'm never near it when I need to be. Emergency button breaks the 12V side of the coil.

Sadly mine is an Aeroparts one which uses a different shear pin, which incidentally involves lying under the vehicle to change. A few years ago they were still available from LR but at about =A325 each!! I got a bag of about 20 for about 50p each from the man who supposedly bought the stock from the firm who bought the Aeroparts business, or some such story. A rather long winded path and I suspect the brass could be a much harder grade or the "necking" where they shear could be less. I could probably use a solid brass pin like yours but don't want to even approach breaking the bollard pin again; I might not be so lucky next time.

Gordon

PS: Mine will be at Step Back in Time in Sedlescombe next weekend, and might even be working if I can find something to pull.

Gordon

Thanks for all the advice. I now have the thing in place on the Series One and (so far) the only thing I have had to do is swap the Series one bumper for a series11 item as the mounting plates are a longer. The next thing is how to mount it to the cross member.

Presumably she'd pull you.

I've already got me coat...

Regards,

Simonm.

As an alternative to rivnuts, you can drill the front chassis member & weld in tubes, then bolt the winch through the tubes using long bolts. This prevents crushing the chassis member if it's overtightened.

I think this is overkill, the bolts to the rear of the winch really only stop it falling down or pulling upwards under load; the bumper takes the real pull (so, make sure your bumper mounts are sound & the bolts in good condition)

I just welded a piece of 1 1/4" x 1/4" flat bar to the front of the crossmember and then drilled and tapped it 5/16" U.N.F., the holes aren't equidistant though so you have to mark them carefully.

Martin

I will always find an alternative to rivenuts as they are practically useless under any sort of load or vibration. The ones used to fix side step brackets to outriggers barely last long enough to weld around them 8-).

Greg