Light Bars

I'm about to try and create a light bar tomorrow using one of Halfords finest commercial vehicle roofbars cut off to a dead length across the roof and then drilled to provide a mounting point for 6 lights - 4 pencil beam spots and 2 fog floods.

I'm trying to decide where to mount things - I'm already planning twin power feeds for the lights themselves with 3 lamps driven off each feed simply to avoid having to run ludicrously thick cable around the car, but I'm trying to decide where to run the power through the body.

The 2 options that occur is to drill straight through the centerline of the roof and use the space above the cabin light to house the relays for each circuit or to mount the relays on the bar itself and run the power lines through one side of the roof, probably the drivers side.

I suspect that the centerline option will make for a nicer fix when I come to get rid of the car, but suggestions are sought as they say.

The lamps are a bunch of 4" Cibie H1 units and 2 Ring square spots - total of 310W of lighting up there.

P.

Reply to
Paul S. Brown
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Sounds interesting - make sure you take some pics and post them somewhere!

You don't say what model it is, but how about running the cables externally, under the windscreen rubbers? Following the line that a raised air intake might take? Not as pretty as your option, but no drilling....

Bruce.

Reply to
Bruce

I'm writing this using a "wireless laptop" - no wired network connections, but it still needs a power cable.

What we need is some of that "wireless electricity", which would solve both of our problems :-)

B.

Reply to
Bruce

No it doesn't. Most laptops have a battery... (not totally necessary confrontation mode = off) :-)

It would also make my office a far safer place...

Reply to
Mother

Two words: Tesla Coil.

Go google.

*now* say it would make your office a safer place :@)

As for the windscreen rubber, this is a Disco 1, so not really an option without buggering the seal unfortunately.

P.

Reply to
Paul S. Brown

yes, but it's never charged when you need it :-)

B.

Reply to
Bruce

This is daft - half past midnight, it's raining, and I've just been outside looking at the seals on my Disco ....

Anyway - on the disco (at least on mine - a 95 TDi) there's a black plastic moulding between the rubber seal and the A-post, with a deep groove in it. The groove is about an inch from the glass.

You've got around 300W of lighting, which will draw around 25A. So you're looking at at least a 2.5mm^2 cable - let's be generous and say a

4mm^2. You need a pair of these.

How about getting some sort of thin black conduit, or even a heavy black 2-core cable, and glueing it into that groove?

B.

Reply to
Bruce

Menatal note: Paul **WILL** be in front of me at all times at Cannock!

Si ;-)

Reply to
simonk

Twas Sat, 17 Apr 2004 23:51:13 +0100 when "Paul S. Brown" put finger to keyboard producing:

Do you have a snorkle? if so run the wires up behind it. if not you could maybe bet some thin cable trunking (pipe stuff) and run that up the same route. it light actually look good and it leaves little in the way of holes when you sell (if that kind of thing worries you).

on my old 110 I had 4 big spotlights on the roof and ran cable truncing out through a hole in the top panel at the rear (to one side) and along under the roof rack, looked rather good and when I cam to sell I just fut a piece of aluminium and rivited it in place covering that panel.

-- Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.) ___________________________________________________________ "To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.

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mrniceATmrnice.me.uk
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110 CSW 2.5(na)D___________________________________________________________

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

On or around Sat, 17 Apr 2004 23:51:13 +0100, "Paul S. Brown" enlightened us thusly:

wild...

put the relays inside, just run your 2 power cables out. I expect you'll need a brace of earth wires too. What you'll really need is a serious grommet or so, to stop the water getting in.

Reply to
Austin Shackles

My old SIII had a couple of work-lights, I think, on the back-panel of the roof, above each of the small rear windows. The hard-top is now on the Lightweight, with the holes covered by ordinary reflectors. I think it's legal, so long as they're red.

I'd want to check the legality, but I suppose you could fit high-level brake lights instead.

Reply to
David G. Bell

Post forwarded to the RSPCA, Skegness Seal Sanctuary, the Vice Squad and the News of the World.

Reply to
Stuart Nuttall

Twas Sun, 18 Apr 2004 10:49:42 +0100 (BST) when snipped-for-privacy@zhochaka.demon.co.uk ("David G. Bell") put finger to keyboard producing:

I've seen that done too, also see a set of stop/tail, indicator lights on that spot. on the expedition vehicles I did we put a GB sticker on the right and a union flag (jack) on the left.

-- Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.) ___________________________________________________________ "To know the character of a man, give him anonymity" - Mr.Nice.

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mrniceATmrnice.me.uk
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110 CSW 2.5(na)D___________________________________________________________

Reply to
Mr.Nice.

I've got a work light there and it passed the MOT so it should be legal

I have wired it with a switch and a red light on the dash, so it can be used legally as a reversing light as well.

DH

Reply to
Mellotron

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