MIG recommendations please

Having MMA, TIG and MIG, I'd say try and get a TIG instead, unless you are doing tons of production welding. DC inverter sets can be had for that kind of budget, and the control over the weld is fantastic.

Mine is bit more, c. 500 quid AC/DC TIG, and can weld

Don't use gasless wire. Get one with a decent torch attached by a Euro connector. Aim for 180A output as a minimum - that way you'll be able to repair heavier items as well. Use 0.6mm wire - it's the best to use on panel steel, but will run ok at the maximum output of a 180A machine. Remember that the welding technique is different to MMA - you 'drag' an arc rod, but you 'push' a MIG torch.

On or around Wed, 10 Jan 2007 17:39:30 +1300, EMB enlightened us thusly:

and generally, if you can weld decently with MMA, you'll find MIG/MAG easy.

the main thing you have to learn is the relationship between wire feed and power settings, which varies a bit from welder to welder. Get the biggest/best welder you can afford. I've got a clarke 150TE and it's OK, but had various (sortable) issues with the wire feed.

Oh, and unless you only want to weld stuff about twice a year, the disposable gas bottles are expensive. Since having the mig, I hardly ever use the arc welder.

Interested in the comment about 0.6mm wire, I normally use 0.8 mainly 'cos it's more reliable to feed (wire is stiffer) in a machine that pushes from the bottom as mine does, also it's easier to get on decent sized reels.

I find that gasless wire makes life much easier when welding outside (e.g. the trailer) on a windy day. I use a Migmate 130 that belongs to a friend - except that he has never used it and merely has the bottles of bargas refilled every so often. I guess though that using bargas may explain why I don't find gasless wire much of a problem.

Incidentally does anyone know how to dismantle a Migmate 130? The wheels are rather loose but AFAICU access is through the top which involves removing the wire feed etc. I also want to replace the earth cable.

Rgds

Richard

On or around Wed, 10 Jan 2007 08:28:20 +0000, Richard enlightened us thusly:

pub gas is CO2 unless you've got the wrong one. I use COOGAR which is a blend of CO2 and Argon and possibly something else, which is better on clean steel, makes smoother welds among other things. I've been told somewhere along the line that straight CO2 is better on rusty steel, mind.

And pub gas bottles are to be avoided as contrary to popular legend it's the wrong gas, I rent a bottle of Migweld Universal from Energas and it's well worth it. Greg

With a decent quality liner and a good torch 0.6mm feeds just fine - it's what every panelbeater I know uses.

should do the job ok. Just make sure you have the correct feed rollers for 0.6mm wire. The same site has 0.6mm wire in 15kg rolls too.

"Lord Austin wrote :-

You can't weld rusty steel, clean it up before welding! As you say, use Coogar or Argoshield.

If you're looking for a MIG set get a small industrial one and open it up before you buy and check the wire feed motor (it should look something like a wiper motor off a Series Landrover) is a decent size, not like the small mickey mouse sets with a screenwasher motor in them. Most half-decent sets are made to use either 0.6mm or 0.8mm wire so really the wire size depends on personal preference or the job in hand and the power you are using. I still prefer oxy/acetylene for repairing the bulkhead etc., you can shape the metal better but it can also buckle large panels if you're not careful, but you can't really use O/A at home. TIGs are magic.

A lot of gas suppliers started putting a small percentage of Nitrogen in the CO2 pub bottles about 10 years ago, to try and stem the theft of brewers bottles from pub car parks etc, you can't weld with Nitrogen present!

Coogar 5 has 5% O2 in a mix of Argon/CO2, this ammount of O2 gives a slightly hotter weld with excellent penetration on mild steel.

Best thing for rusty steel is removal of the rust before trying to weld it, to avoid corrosion inclusions and resultant fast corrosion of the weld/weakening of the joint! ;-) Badger.

On or around Wed, 10 Jan 2007 13:06:03 -0000, "Badger" enlightened us thusly:

meanwhile, back in the real world...

I take your point and I agree, but in some cases removal of all the rust is not a credible option, you have to the best you can.

Surely that when you should get the stick welder out?

Richard

Many thanks to all. Lots of good points.

Peter

On or around Wed, 10 Jan 2007 13:35:19 +0000, beamendsltd enlightened us thusly:

stick welding isn't much better with rust, IME. The right answer is of course to remove the rust as was stated.

That's just Guinness, 50% each of CO2 and Nitrogen and I think it's something to do with getting the froth right BICBW, but it might have something to do with stopping people nicking it plus it's the only one with the regulator fitting same as Coogar or Oxygen, CO2s are male on the bottle.

Martin

Hmmmm.... they definitely had the CO2/N2 mix up here in "normal" CO2 cylinders, caught out a lot of d.i.y. welders. Badger.

You're probably right then but CO2 doesn't weld as good or as neatly as Coogar/Argoshield anyway on steel so they're wasting their time. Serves 'em right, skinflints. :-)

Martin

Hehe, yep. To be honest though, co2 is handy for thin panelwork as it has a greater cooling effect and less chance for a novice to just burn holes everywhere, least that's what I found when I was learning to Mig weld years back. Badger.

"Badger" wrote :-

I must admit to using pub gas when I started and I didn't have any instruction, more like Clint Eastwood with his 44 magnum, point and shoot and see what happens but I soon changed to Coogar5 and wouldn't use CO2 now even if I ran out. Don't think I could weld right now with CO2 after getting used to the other, it would be like trying to weld mild steel with pure argon but I hardly ever use a stick welder these days. With a MIG set I think the most important thing whatever the OP is using it for is to experiment with the wire speed and keep the gas low.

Martin