cheap gasless mig recommendations?

Thanks! Andrew

Seen as noone has answered you yet (and that I have no knowledge to be able to answer myself), may I suggest the sci.engr.joining.welding newgroup. I think there's mostly yanks in there so hardware/pricing may be different, but you're increasing the chances of getting a good answer.

Geo

Or try these

Thanks! Andrew

Don't bother, more trouble than they're worth in my opinion, especially at the cheaper end of the scale. Best to get a gas version and just use the small disposable gas cannisters if it's only for very occasional use. You ought to be able to find something in your price range, I'd suggest 90 amp output minimum, but be aware you won't weld chassis with that low a current, or at least you won't get a strong and safe weld...... Have a look on ebay and see what's going for what sort of money, as a guide? Badger.

I bought a gasless clarke one (though i use it with gas as i dont like gasless and you just need to add a regulator). Cost around £150 (was a clarke vat-free type dealy but from an indy welding dealer not machine mart). Its really good. better than the cebora one my mechanic mate had that i used to use. mine is a 151EN i think.

i'd also second the recommendation of

Good advice Brian - gasless MIG is pretty useless on exhaust tubing.

Thanks for all the advice, I was not sure about gasless, but also wanted to avoid the small gas bottles if possible, but with the negatives so far I now think gas is the way to go. I've got to fix 2 joints on the v8 exhaust, I'm fed up trying to get them to seal for more than 1 week using the normal u bolts, so I want to weld the b*****ds up instead. I've got a small arc welder which I use for most things, but know it would just blow holes in the exhaust if I got within 10 yards of it! Re Badgers comment on chassis repairs - hopefully I won't have to do that for many years and I would not trust my welding on a chassis.

Andrew

Don't know if they are any good, but are there any left in ALDI?

--=20 Carl Robson Audio stream:

Really? Worked fine on the exhaust I fabricated on the Jag lumped Landy.. though not the prettyest of affairs but thats down to my artistic approach to welding... ahem.

Lee

Andrew T. uttered summat worrerz funny about:

Historically If I've had repeated problems on the same joint normally theres a mount missing somewhere thus putting extra strain on the exhaust hence the issue at the joint. Worth a peek up and down the system incase anything has gone AWOL.

Lee

Oxy/acetylene is the way to go on exhausts but you need to clean off the coating on most exhausts first with light grinding, neater job and relieves any stress. If you're just doing the one job, can you borrow the equipment off a mate?

Martin

It's probably more down to doing it gasless - a neat weld is not a feature of a gasless MIG.

On or around Thu, 28 Jun 2007 07:36:26 +1200, EMB enlightened us thusly:

From what I hear, it's pretty useless full stop. And the wire costs a lot.

although it's slow, I quite like the ol' oxy-acetylene on exhausts, using mild steel rods, provided you can take it off to weld it - but welding exhausts under the motor is a monumental bodge whatever you use for it.

On or around Wed, 27 Jun 2007 18:20:52 +0100, Tom Woods enlightened us thusly:

I've got a clarke 150 turbo. Had no end of hassle with the wire feed unit on it 'til I reworked it a bit. Was a simple enough fix, in the end: the wire feed roller has a groove to grip the wire, and above this is a springloaded carrier with a simple ball bearing race in it which applies downward pressure on the wire to keep it in the groove. This was not lined up with the groove, and was prone to let the wire escape. took a bit off the carrier part to move it over a bit and it's fine.

In reply to various posts...

The reason that it is a dogdy joint is a c***p britpart exhaust where the flare was made too large to sleeve over the normal diameter tube, so there is a 1-2m gap around the "inner" tube where the flare slides over. (on a V8 where the 2 downpipes join on to the bit with the Y junction in). No matter how tight the u bolts are it never seals. I have at the moment wrapped several layers of exhaust repair bandage around the joint, then 4" wide strip of thin steel around the bandage to provide strength then 2 u bolts per joint (at each end of the "steel bandage"). This has held out very well, but still does not seal properly and you can hear the slight leak which really bugs me. So my plan was, during my gearbox change next week, when the exhaust will be off the 110, is to weld these joints up good and proper (after ensuring it is all lines up correctly!)

All the hangers are OK, but thanks for the idea. Unfortunatly there is no Aldi within 2 hours drive of me (highlands) This is a good excuse to buy a new toy, otherwise I would try to get someone else to do it for me :-)

Thanks for all the posts,

Andrew

On or around Thu, 28 Jun 2007 01:21:27 -0700, "Andrew T." enlightened us thusly:

cut extra slots in the outside bit to allow it to squash down smaller.

Yes, good idea, but it is at the "closed end" of the slots where it leaks, kind of "upstream" of the u bolts. I tried to put a sleeve inside the flare to reduce the diameter, but it was just too difficult to get it in properly whilst fitted to the LR, but might try this again when its off, as I really can't afford the welder right now, more important to spend the mone on a new clutch while I have the gearboxes out.

Andrew

Just a little further on this, before you remove the exhaust can you tack weld the bad part and still be able to remove it? As you suggest you will weld it then have to refit it therefore must be able to? If you put three equidistant tacks around the joint then you will be able to make a decent welded joint while it's off without it moving out of alignment. It won't matter how much of a bodged job these tacks are as long they have got a good hold.

Martin

Good idea, I had thought about the problem of keeping it aligned after removing it, tack welding might not be possible due to the exhaust repair bandage I've used up to now, but I thought of drilling 3 holes equidistant as you say and using self tappers to hold it in place prior to welding. Mind you getting a drill in there won't be easy either.

Andrew

There is a welding shop near me. For £50 i bought the required regulator and a pub gas bottle full of CO2. When it is empty they refill it for £15 or similar. Much nicer than the disposables!

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