ok how the feck do you...

Hit the nut wit a chiesel/screw driver (not forgetting health and saftey) to "crack" the nut, it will then undo by hand. It's left-hand thread!

Richard

Cheers Richard

although re-reading the HBOL and also the howto piece on difflock both say that its only the diesels that are left handed

going to finish my brew and have another go

Si

The V8 is indeed the correct way round to undo - only the diesel is the "wrong" way..... :-)

Diesel 200TDi & 300TDi and Carb V8 Discovery's use a 32mm Hub spanner and are left hand thread

3.9 V8 discovery engines or V8's with the serpentine set-up (one belt) use a 36mm Hub spanner and are right hand thread

Regards

Brian Tonks Tonks4x4

27-29 Main Street Huthwaite Sutton-In-Ashfield Nottinghamshire NG17 2LD 01623 452885

As i now have a red finger I am well hacked off - red as in blood red!

blooming thing

ok next question - how do you recover from a buggered viscous fan nut?

Si

Pub?

Seriously though, is the nut that bad?

Richard

Try spot welding a bar to it of sufficient length to produce a force high enough to budge it.

Alternatively, use a long bar with a socket on the end, wedge it against the floor and use the engine's rotation force to budge it by operating the starter.

Third and final alternative - give in and take it to somebody else to do!!!!!!!

If you do opt for the "use the starter to undo the nut" way do NOT FORGET TO unplug the distributor main lead so that you get no spark to the spark plugs or undo the electric feed on the fuel pump if you have a diesel.

Take care Pantelis

message

On or around Thu, 3 Nov 2005 15:29:53 +0000 (UTC), beamendsltd enlightened us thusly:

If you have the special spanner, then hit that instead - the one I have had plastic stuff on it, helps if you pull that off first. Line it up in a suitable position and give it a clout with a medium-sized hammer.

You want all the belts still in place for this, to help stop everything rotating.

It's the shock that's the relevant bit. Might take several reposition-and-hit cycles to get it loose. And yes, 's left-hand thread.

Well, I gave it one final chance at with the loud incantation "move you f**king ba**ard" and do you know what - that was the magic one!

Whoever had this disco before me loved threadlock - every feckin bolt has got it - except they didnt use threadlock, by the feel of it they used araldite.

Next mission - undo the oil drain plug - been working at it for an hour or so and gotten nowhere yet

ho hum - so much for a "quick" job

Si

On a 3.9 v8 with a serpentine it is a usual anticlock to undo thread - I now know this.

Si

Most Loctites start to soften at about 130 celcius so a blast with a hot air gun or similar will often help.

David

Air chisel.

Yep, the perfect way to knacker the water pump bearings! Badger.

On or around Thu, 3 Nov 2005 19:19:17 -0000, "SiK" enlightened us thusly:

this shows the value of RTFM...

I've got a 36mm "spanner" which I made for getting the (LH thread) one off the V6 ford, somewhere. Bit of plate cut into a

____________ | | | _______| | | | | 36mm A/F | | | |______ | | |__________|

shape, and welded to a flat bit about 15" long, with a bit of a kink in it to get it in behind the fan hub.

On or around Thu, 03 Nov 2005 19:29:01 GMT, rads enlightened us thusly:

I tend to use oxy-acetylene meself...

seriously, some sump plugs can be stuck like a sticky thing, and getting it quite hot will let you shift it.

Having a fire extinguisher handy is a good plan, though.

Never has done yet!

You've been lucky. I know of a local garage who do it deliberately, happy in the knowledge that the customer will be returning within a few months for a water pump change! Works for them in around 75% of cases!! Cowboys, I hate 'em. Badger.

Hi Badger. Are the bearings changeable, or do you need a whole new pump unit ? I have the pump from my 200Tdi rebuild, and wondered about starting from known good.

Steve