OT: (saab) sump plug trouble

Massive Stilson wrench always works for me, but you'll need a new sump plug afterwards. (The angle of the jaws and the geometry of the pivot mean that a good Stilson cannot slip - you'll crush the bolt before it rounds it off.) Or try a hammer and cold chisel on the corners. New plug, etc. The shock should move the plug if you don't smash your hands first. :-)

Mmmmm try warming it up gently with a brazing torch - I mean gently and have a fire extinguisher nearby. It should loosen it.

Andrew

should, use WD-40. If it moves and shouldn't, use the duct tape.

On or around Mon, 16 Aug 2004 16:24:28 +0100, Mr.Nice. enlightened us thusly:

heat it with an oxy-acetylene torch, then apply spanner.

seriously, that's what I've had to do to a couple that wouldn't move. One was sufficiently tight that it was just distorting the sump when leaning on it.

helps if you've not destroyed the hex head, of course... use a single-hex socket on it, not a 12-pointer.

fit a new washer unless it's a solid copper one (all mine are, I make 'em to replace the crap collapsible ones that stuff is fitted with) in which case, anneal the washer before refitting - heat it with a gas torch or similar 'til it's bright red and then dunk it in cold water...

I've got ~4 saabs (99's and 900's) at the moment and the only way ive managed to get the sump plugs off any of them is by mutilating them with a hammer and chisel, or hammering a smaller socket on (12mm i think) and using a powerbar (you may want to put it on some axle stands first so that you can get under it).

Once you get the initial movement, it will come off easily.

when you finally get it off,

will sell you a new sump plug for £1.49. (genuine oil filters are a bargain from them too!)

If you get stuck on your saab again, there are some great forums over at

Twas Mon, 16 Aug 2004 22:52:09 +0100 when Austin Shackles put finger to keyboard producing:

I used a single hex socket and a long bar and couldn't make it budge. the head is getting into a bit of a mess now.

I don't have anything hotter than a zippo to apply to it though.

looks like I may be drilling it out with one of those reverse-twist drill bits, but will that work?

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Twas Mon, 16 Aug 2004 23:14:49 +0100 when Tom Woods put finger to keyboard producing:

I've ordered a new sump plug now so I'm happier butchering this one (it's already a mess) I have a bag of copper washers here somewhere, in the back of the Land Rover I think.

I don't think fitting a smaller socket will help in this case (too late for one thing) I was wondering about hacksawing the washer, would that help?

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Twas Mon, 16 Aug 2004 18:16:06 +0000 (UTC) when "Richard Brookman" put finger to keyboard producing:

I've been using one of these yesterday

?_dyncharset=UTF-8&q=&n=24587&pn=1&pd=1&pi=1&cn=1&cd=1&x=10&y=10and it'd gripping and crushing the head of the bolt but not moving it. most odd.

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Maybe. What is more likely is that the Ee-Z-out (that's what they're called) will break off in the plug and then you will be in a much worse situation. I wouldn't risk it.

Pete

On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 09:20:42 +0100, Mr.Nice. enlightened us thusly:

take it to a garage where they have an oxy torch.

oh and if you find someone to lend you the use of a torch, be careful not to set it on fire.

On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 09:20:42 +0100, Mr.Nice. enlightened us thusly:

whereabouts are you? I've got a welding torch...

Twas Tue, 17 Aug 2004 10:16:02 +0100 when Austin Shackles put finger to keyboard producing:

East Cornwall, PL13.

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 11:37:31 +0100, Mr.Nice. enlightened us thusly:

bet you're glad yer not in Boscastle. It's apparently a bit wet there ATM.

On or around Tue, 17 Aug 2004 09:32:11 +0100, Mr.Nice. enlightened us thusly:

yer want one of these:

making sure it's the 24" one.

Twas Tue, 17 Aug 2004 14:18:13 +0100 when Austin Shackles put finger to keyboard producing:

it is indeed somewhat soggy over there.

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Twas Tue, 17 Aug 2004 14:21:28 +0100 when Austin Shackles put finger to keyboard producing:

more money... how sure can I be that this'll shift it? so-far I'm just crushing the head of the nut....

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

On or around Wed, 18 Aug 2004 09:15:24 +0100, Mr.Nice. enlightened us thusly:

you can;t be sure, as such. But the pipe wrench is a thing which is designed to grip round things and self-tightens. It shifts most things, and leaves 'orrid great toothmarks in 'em, as well.

I've been using such on the disco sump plug, as I've yet to get tuits to purchase the necessary 1.1/8" AF socket. why TF can't it be 1.1/16"? Then the wheel nut spanner would fit. Buggrem.

Does that stand for re-using any solid copper washer?

I've reused them in the past but never annealed them first cos I didn't know you needed to.

Hmm... Just checked that I really knew what annealing was.

Annealing is when you heat something up and let it cool slowly to soften it or relieve stresses in the material.

What you have described is quenching isn't it?

I could understand how softening it might make it seal better when it gets re-used but quenching, doesn't that harden things? Or is that what's needed?

Quenching is usually applied to steel components.

Get fully hot (not going to quote temperatures or colours). Quench to (near) instantly cool to give highest hardness but also low ductility and brittleness.

Re-heat to lower "tempering" temperature to trade of some hardness for less brittleness, more ductility and toughness.

Don't think you can harden copper in the same way (no phase change, and besides which it would melt!). You can work harden copper, but would agree that to fully anneal you should let it cool slowly, not quench.

David

On or around 18 Aug 2004 13:35:39 GMT, Simon Barr enlightened us thusly:

that's for steel, whereas

yep. and that's for copper.

get it as bright red as your nerves will stand, (remember that it melts at a lower temperature than steel) and dunk it in cold water. Afterwards, it'll be all soft and pliable. Copper work-hardens very quickly, so you anneal it in order that it's soft and makes a good seal when you refit it.