Ping - Austin.

On or around Thu, 07 Oct 2004 16:30:10 GMT, "Lee_D" enlightened us thusly:

hmmmm. with that sort of a clout on the front corner, I'd be suprised if the front wheel is still sound.

but the starting bid is silly money, in my terms. Why do people put such high starting bids on stuff? That's about what I'd expect it to go for, maybe, if the engine's sound and someone really wants it.

engine once broken. Certainly

It's had a nasty one, but I bet the car it looked worse as it's ridden over the top a bit.

Be worth buying for me too, not for the engine, for all the little bits I need for mine to make it great again, then I'll trash it probably going off-road!

Shame Austin doesn't live closer, it would be stripped bare in a weekend!

Nige

Because it costs to put a reserve on & this is a way of doing a reserve!

If it's got a leather interior & is Ok inside I'll share some of the cost for the thing with you if you want the engine Austin, Monty's exterior is sound, but the interior & some other stuff is a bit ropey. If you want the engine & have a trailer I'll come with you & (if you have anywhere to store if for a week) I'll strip all the stuff I need, you take out the engine & the rest goes to the shredder!

Not a bad idea, the glass alone, ecu's & headlining etc can be well worth a look for folk.

I would pay a decent amount for a full leather interior etc!

Mail me if you want to chat about it matey.

Nige

How much is decent money? I may have to go down the dismantling route for my 1988 RRC (grey leather interior!)

Richard

That depends on the state of the interior!!

Send me a good high res picture & I'll have a look matey.

Nige

Yer not kin wrong! 500 for a wrecker G plate??? What planet are some people on?

But, if it had enough decent bits that folk needed, it wouldn't cost £500. You could buy a wrecker of any car for that, but it's only worth it in bits if folk need the bits!

Imagine how much money wreckers yards make from trashed cars & especially 4x4's due to the high parts costs (esp Japs)

Nige

On or around Thu, 07 Oct 2004 20:50:10 +0100, Richard Savage enlightened us thusly:

gearbox is what I'm after at the moment, not engine, anyway. It was another bloke who had the tired VM 2.4 and I think he's coming to the conclusion that he's gonna flog it again, which I think is silly, meself - I'd have the decent TDi in it and it'd make a damn fine motor.

What gearbox on yours, Richard? and what condition?

Good answer! In all honesty dismantling will not be a procedure tolerated by Mrs S. If it gets to that point I will raffle it for the price of a drink. Also I haven't persuaded SWMBO yet that I should by my mate's L reg Trooper for 4K.

But watch this NG as they say.

Richard

Twas Thu, 07 Oct 2004 16:30:10 GMT when "Lee_D" put finger to keyboard producing:

If the wheels and tyres were ok and they'd fit mine I might want them. I have a fancy for the engine too as my 2.5 n/a is getting on for 300k miles. trouble is I don't have alot of cash at the moment,

Regards. Mark.(AKA, Mr.Nice.)

Hi Austin,

Approx 4 year old Ashcroft recon ZF. Lovely clunk into reverse. But I haven't checked _all_ (i.e.any) of the possible sources of slack in the drive train!

Richard

On or around Fri, 08 Oct 2004 14:11:45 +0100, Richard Savage enlightened us thusly:

which T-box? should've asked that as well. what I'm really after is a direct swap for the LT77/LT230; I suspect that an R380/LT230 combo would do, as well.

Is that not more likely to be the transfer box or the output shaft going into same?

Er, dunno. does saying '1988 RRC 3.5 V8i' help in any way? Or transfer box with manual diff lock?

Richard

Yep, but as I understand that it is wear on the o/p shaft from the gearbox that gives the clunk - and have seen some gruesome pictures on an Australian? web site of same - I'm not overly impressed with Messrs Ashcrofts products, unless it is wear on whatever the gearbox o/p shaft inputs into in the transfer box and I am doing Ashcrofts a miss-service.

I think others have suggested slack in the rest of the drive train - someone mentioned wear in CV joints IIRC as possible slack points.

However, it's not going to be fixed before I get rid of the RR. I now pause in neutral between D and R, take my foot off the brake, then re-apply it hard before moving to R. I've also found that moving from D to R whilst still rolling forwards slightly (very!) doesn't produce a clunk. Oh and I start it in neutral.

Richard

On or around Fri, 08 Oct 2004 19:06:50 +0100, Richard Savage enlightened us thusly:

the latter tells me it's an LT230 variant not a Borg Warner, so yes. In fact, the former implies the same thing, as ISTR the BW transfer box didn't appear 'til 89.

On or around Fri, 08 Oct 2004 18:18:48 +0100, Mother enlightened us thusly:

not supposed to be a major issue with the ZF, mind, or not compared with the LT77 anyway. although I presume it has the same lubrication (or lack of) problem.