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problem with 110 cutting out, starter switch/steering lock problem?

I have a K Reg 110 CSW, 200Tdi.

The first sympton I noticed was when starting. I would turn the key to the on position and hear a relay or two clunk as expected. After the glow plug wait, as I turned the key from the 'on' to 'start' position, the relay(s) would momentarily click off but it would start OK.

This weekend however, the engine started to cut out when running, either straing after starting or anytime after. The engine runs fine and when it does cut out it stops dead, no spluttering, and restarts straight away.

Tinkering with the ignition key it looks like there is a dead spot at the clockwise end (towards the start position) in the 'on' position at which all the electrics are swicthed off. If I back the key off towards the 'accessory' position without actually turning off everything is fine. I drove home for two hours like this yesterday.

Has anyone else seen this failure mode? It seems to be getting worse, so I'd better fix it. Or has anyone been living with this quite happily?

I'm guessing the fix is a new steering lock/start swicth assembly (30/40 quid - part number anyone?). The current one has (logically, really) been fitted with tamper proof bolts and which will need drilling out. Anyone know what diameter the bolts are. Aby other comments or advice?

Thanks for all you help.

Reply to
Reginald Molehsuband
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I've never looked at it, but I suspect the switch section is changeable without the lock section, and you don't need to remove the tamper proof bolts to replace it. JD

Reply to
JD

In article , Reginald Molehsuband writes

I *think* I've got a similar problem. I've had 'random' cutting out, then restarting for a while. I put it down to tank air-locking (see another thread), but the problems are exactly as you describe. In addition, on occasions it *won't* restart for a few seconds, then apparently comes good.

I'll investigate the switch contacts myself.

Regards,

Simonm.

Reply to
SpamTrapSeeSig

PRC8230 - for 200/300tdi

Seems you've found the problem with the switch. If it's not that then it may be the stop solenoid.

HTH Gromit.

Reply to
Gromit

Thanks.

Yeah, and thanks to 'JD' for pointing out that I could remove the swicth part without taking the whole lock assembly out. The HBOL mentions this but slightly unserstates the digital gymnastics required to do so. Two of the smallest screws I've found on my 110.

Hope/think it's not the solenoid. The rear part of the switch was coming away when I took it out, so I'm hoping that was the problem. Also, jiggling the key definately had an effect. I have a replacement on order, so I'll either be laughing or cursing by Friday evening. Once again, thanks for all the help.

Reply to
urchaidh

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