Following on from my encounter with a bollard, I'm going to replace the entire exhaust. The Y pipe needs replacing as does the middle and rear box, and Mr Beamends can supply for £125 plus delivery.
It looks fairly simple to do, but how easy is it to do without having a garage lift? Would a set of ramps suffice to help get it on?
Does anyone know how much the chavs at Slow-Fit are likely to charge? It's been some years since I've had to replace an exhaust..
Thanks, Paul
I've just had to fit a new stainless Y pipe to my P38 as it failed the MOT emissions test. It is quite easy to do. I had to remove the gearbox cross member which required loads of WD40! New gaskets from Landrover were pennies, probably even cheaper from Richard. My only problem is impatience which caused me to break a stud from the exhaust manifold. I tried to drill it out from underneath but got the angle wrong and ruined the manifold. £30 for one from a scrappy! All you need is a jack and axlestands/ramps as you need to get underneath the car. You need to support the gearbox when the X member is removed. I used the jack. If I hadn't buggered up the manifold it would have taken a few hours tops.
I'd like to point out that this is my first job on the Rangie and it wasn't too bad. Now all I've got to do is replace the heater "O" rings!
Adam
4.6HSE P38, the BBT (big bad truck)
Paul:
Its easy enough. Starting with a new system makes life easy. Make sure you have all the correct gaskets and an olive between the cats and muffler. I'd also suggest getting new rubber mounts to the frame/body. I found that I also needed new nuts and bolts to secure the cats to the muffler.
Some tips:
Wear eye protection. Lots of rust to fall on you. Use a sawz-all to cut away the old system. That will make the job even easier, disconnect the lambda sensors prior to removal of the cats at the electrical connection. Remove the lambda sensors from the cats off the vehicle. Much easier. I used a dab of anti-seize when re-installing. Once you have the old system removed... Install the new system snug. Do not tighten any bolts/nut until the system is in correct alignment. Work from the manifolds to the rear.
Good luck,
Jack
You & me both mate!!! Have you seen the easy way at Ranger Rovers?? I'm gonna do mine next weekend.
Nige
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Subaru WRX Range Rover 4.6 HSE (The Tank!)
We might be going on a summer holiday, the Greece Ball rally!!!!
Nige nearly made me spill my Shiraz on 08/06/2006 20:35 by writing:
do mine next weekend.
That was one of the first "big" jobs I tackled on mine. Patience is a virtue in this case, and don't overtighten the replacement screw.
If you haven't seen the tip about getting a M5 (ISTR) cap head bolt with two nuts locked together to replace the screw that's in there, that's my top tip.
That and find every 1/4" socket bar, adaptor, joint, wiggle bar, and screw head you can beg, steal, borrow or blag. I found you needed one of the long hex heads (the sort to use with a drill rather than a screwdriver) to get at the screw to start with, because a short one won't fit with the hex driver around it.
Andy
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