brill off road, plenty of low down torque , get me anywhere, but my
> problem is towing a 17 foot swift challenger on road.
> As soon as it sees a hill its down the box and crawl. I was thinking
> of getting a 90 to compensate this and with a price tag of around 2
> grande for a decentish old one thought another way round it was to bob
> a 300 TDi in it.
To be honest Andy, you will only get a NA Diesel or TD model 90 for £2k. These vehicles will not set the earth on fire when it comes to hills on their own, let alone with a caravan!!!
My TD did not like flat roads at above 65..
The 300TDi lump obviously will fit the early 90, but not without significant modification. On the other hand a 200TDi will drop straight into a TD90. Make sure it is a Defender engine and not a Disco one!!! Turbo is in the wrong place on Disco for a 90/110.
I would still be doubtful that the 200TDi or 300TDi will get you up hills quickly when towing, fast is not really what LR do best, unless you look at V8's
Just asked Bruce and it was a 300 Tdi he used that time. It towed our caravan 50 odd miles and he said he can only describe it as steady. It was also an automatic and he's never been that keen on them either so he's perhaps not the best person to give an oppinion. The V8 wins hands down for him, although he wouldn't mind doing the same run in a Disco with a TD5 engine.
On or around Wed, 30 Jul 2003 08:01:09 +0100, "Spencer" enlightened us thusly:
I think you might find it a bit of effort to get a 200 or 300 TDi into a series, though I'm sure it can be done.
The TDis are capable of being tuned, a bit. Been working on our disco, and it's now prepared to sit at an indicated 90 on the flat without being at full throttle. Most of that achieved by a good service, and sorting the missing valve caps, some by turning the fuelling up 'til it doesn't quite smoke.
This is without looking at turbo boost (haven't got a gauge). You can also turn the boost up a bit and fit a bigger intercooler to cope with it, and then perhaps turn the fuel up a bit more. I doubt I'll do any of these, except maybe get hold of a gauge to check that the boost pressure is up to spec.
Not recommended to try and tune the TD, it tends to break.
depends on what you're after, I think. If you shop around, you can pick up an early 200 TDi disco for sub 3-grand, if you look around far enough and are prepared to reject the crap. this may not suit you, but it might be a more sensible choice than trying to source a decent TDi and fit it to your series. alternatively, you could find a rusted-out disco and buy it as a kit of parts, but don't expect the conversion to be easy, and you might end up with chassis mods.
Austin, How did you tune up the Tdi, in particular turning up the fuel?
My 110 CSW is more sluggish than I think it should be, after having a Disco. However looking back thro its previous owners service history, it has been into the garage a number of times for poor fuel consumption. At the moment I'm getting about 28 mpg around town, and on a long run its a lot more, but I havent measured it. So whatever the garage did worked, but its was obviously at the expense of the performance.
I would prefer to have a bit more power.
Steve
Aust> On or around Wed, 30 Jul 2003 08:01:09 +0100, "Spencer"
theres a lock nut on the fuel injector pump with a screw turnable by a flat bladed screwdriver protruding from its middle. undo the locknut and screw the screw dont know which ways which, but youll know straight away.
turn it 1/4 of a turn at a time and when your nearly kicking black smoke out ( unburnt diesel) thats the time to back it off a tad and its done.
trial and error im afraid.
turn it down for the MOT.
Andy
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So, by overfuelling the engine in this manner, what is the Pmax figure you are achieving and the exhaust pre turbo temperature as the design of the Tdi is very marginal.
This is all very interesting, Does this fuel adjustment screw appear on the 200 pump as well? and who supplies larger capacity intercoolers (at what cost?) to provide the additional air for a real performance boost. And can the 200 and 300 engine take the increased performance in the long term? Thanks, Peter
On or around Wed, 30 Jul 2003 12:17:20 +0100, Steve Nunn enlightened us thusly:
I dunno if I saved it last time... seems not...
disclaimer: If anything you do following reading this breaks your engine, don't come crying to me. You do this type of stuff at your own risk.
first service the engine, including air filter, diesel filter and valve clearances.
then check that when you put the pedal to the floor it does actually open the pump to the stop - cable can be slack, if so, take up the slack in the cable, till there's just a little bit of free play with yer foot off, to make sure it goes back to idle properly.
next check the free-revving speed: make sure the engine's thoroughly warm and has plenty of oil; as per the MOT smoke test, which is basically what you're doing...
floor the throttle, wait for the engine speed to stabilise (takes about 2-3 seconds), note the RPM and release the throttle. You need a rev counter for this, which is no problem on the disco... It should do about 4500 rpm. You can set it to just under 5000 without apparently harming things; though of course you don't rev it that hard in normal use. Do this by moving the maximum speed stop on the pump, which is the stop which the pump lever hits when it's "open". Move it a little at a time and check the revs you're getting. Note that it has a seal on it...
Having done that, instruct an assistant in the technique of doing the revs thing, and watch the exhaust (or put a mirror up so you can see the exhaust, I guess - if the exhaust comes out sideways you can see the exhaust in the driving mirror. Rev the engine as before, let it idle for a few seconds, then repeat, and look for smoke. If there's a lot of black smoke, it's running too much fuel; if there's no obvious smoke it can be turned up. The fuelling adjuster is on the "back" end of the pump, i.e. the opposite end to the pulley. The adjuster comes out parallel with the fuel outlet pipes, above them and towards the off side of the vehicle. it has a 13mm locknut, and a threaded rod which protrudes, the end of the rod has a 6mm hex on it. There will be some kind of seal on the adjuster, which may hide the locknut. slacken the locknut and then turn the adjuster in by no more than 1/4 turn, re-tighten the locknut and look for smoke as before. You're aiming for a situation where there's a slight amount of black smoke as the engine is accelerating, but no obvious smoke once it's up to revs. If you get a lot of smoke, you've gone too far, so back it off a bit. The adjustment is quite sensitive, a quarter turn is usually enough.
If you have a friendly MOT garage, you can do the last phase with the aid of the smoke checker for MOTs, and make sure you've got it nicely below the MOT threshold; otherwise, you may fail the test... in the event of it being slightly too smoky on test, the best bet is to back the maximum speed off to the book value of 4500, which will probably solve it - if it doesn't, then you've over-done it on the fuelling adjustment anyway.
The point about adjusting the maximum speed is not to allow it to rev very fast on the road - it improves the mid-range performance at full throttle, by allowing the pump to "open" slightly more.
.......
further power is to be had, but involves much more work and care and expense, you have to turn up the turbo boost, fit a larger intercooler and possibly re-calibrate the fuel pump to cater for the increased boost.
Note in general, the more power you get from it, the shorter the engine life and the less fuel economy. our disco currently does about 29 mpg on average, I think, probably a bit more on a sensible-speed run, quite a bit less at 90 on the motorway.
I agree with Nick on the TD unit. My previous 90 was a 2.5TD, I bought it at approx 100k miles and sold at with 158k on it.
When I bought it it needed 4 new pistons. The problem with the TD is that it cracks pistons, pulls the conrod out and flails around destroying the engine. There are other problems but none that other engines dont suffer from.
To check the engine (while its running), take the oil filler cap off and put your hand over the hole. There should be NO pressure/ pulsing/ smoke coming out of the oil filler. If there is check the pistons before relying on the engine. It will probably need new pistons, note that worn rings can also cause this effect.
Other than that (which I knew about when I bought it) the only other thing I changed was the radiator.
Good little engine if looked after, which admitedly, it does need more than other engines, but its not over the top.
On or around Thu, 31 Jul 2003 23:29:04 +0100, Steve Nunn enlightened us thusly:
approx 100k miles and sold
cracks pistons, pulls the
but none that other
your hand over the hole.
there is check the pistons
rings can also cause
changed was the radiator.
other engines, but its not
not sure how it compares on power and torque with the daihatsu 2.8 though. I assume the daihatsu is either non-turbo or buggered, as from what I've seen of the turbo ones, a 2.5TD wouldn't go as well.
On or around 1 Aug 2003 08:46:29 GMT, Andy enlightened us thusly:
I don't suppose TDi into-a-series is that difficult. I think you'd find a
200 TDi easier to get, and possibly easier to fit. My approach would be to hunt a rusted disco as a donor. The 200 TDi was of course fitted to defenders, too, but these are less likely to be rusted out :-)
you should gain a 5-speed 'box, as well, which you'd probably need to mate with the engine anyway. Fitting is largely a matter of how competent/confident you are about hacking around the chassis etc.; the point of having a donor vehicle is that you should have the necessary mounts etc. to hand.
I'd have thought the exact opposite... Discovery seems to do quite well (at least structurally, panels do corrode quite a bit).
Defenders at that age tend to have rotten bulkheads and doors at funny angles, not to mention swiss cheese for rear crossmembers. All easier to fix than on a Disco of course.
Tim Hobbs
'58 Series 2 '77 101FC Ambulance '95 Discovery V8i
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