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Re: RRC V8 3.5; why won't it start

Thanks Pete, I measure the ballast resistor at 6.83k Ohm, which seems to be exactly the right number. Can it still be knackered?

In news:d6994$46588b26$d50af4a4$ snipped-for-privacy@abuse.newsxs.nl, Jan wittered on forthwith;

I have a 1988 Range Rover Classic V8 3.5. Late december 2006, while > motoring along happily, all of a sudden it just quit on me. Had to > call roadside assistance for a tow to a garage nearby. It would > start, but just wouldn't pull. Idling very roughly and blowing big > black clouds, it even shot flames out of the exhaust on a few > occasions! After a few tries it had even stopped doing that; it > wouldn't start anymore. > After a long and exhausting search, during which I must have read all > the articles on Range Rovers in all the newsgroups and forums on the > internet and having tried and tested just about every part of the > ignition and fuel supply (everything checked out OK of course, but > the car still wouldn't start) I sent the ECU off for a rebuilt. Put > it back in, but no joy. Drained the tank and put new fuel in, but no > joy. Then I changed the ignition amplifier and that did the trick. > Fired up first time. Overwhelmed with happiness I checked the > ignition timing and made a testrun. This was late March. After that > the garage checked the CO and adjusted it. Then another testrun > (everything OK) and that was that! Next morning would not start! > Hasn't run since. I now have confirmation that sparking is strong > enough to weld and that the fuelpump delivers at 2.5 bar. When I turn > the key the engine goes "vroom" for a second and then dies. It won't > continue to run. What can possibly be wrong with this engine? I know > the airmassmeter is a bit off the mark, but that shouldn't stop the > engine from running, methinks. Hope someone out there has the answer, > so that I may resume my happy motoring.

Ballast resistor on the coil is knackered.

When it's cranking it is bypassed, as soon as you let go of the key it basically switches off the coil instead of switching down to 9v

Reply to
Jan
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Hi Connect a wire straight from battery to coil to bypass ballast resitor and see if it runs longer? Al

Reply to
al

6.83k ohms? Thats a tad high isn't it, are you sure you don't mean 6.83 ohms?

Could also be faulty ignition switch but not as likely as the ballast resistor, check ignition switch output when in start *and* run positions.

Martin

Reply to
Oily

right number.

Check also it's connection beneath the terminals. As has been said just bypass it with a lead, it won't overheat in the short term. I had just this problem with the 101 when I cranked it up this year, loose terminal connection on ballast resistor.

AJH

Reply to
AJH

If this is the version hinged flap air flow meter (it may apply in some way to the hot wire version also but I know nothing about that) there's something else to consider.

The fuel pump only runs whilst cranking or when the switch in the air flow meter closes as air is sucked through by the running engine.

So check the connections to the air flow meter and the switch itself. The switch contacts are between the outer two pins on the 7 pin connector (blue/purple and brown/orange). The contacts should close if you move the flap away from the rest position.

The fuel pump electrical circuit is somewhat tortuous and there are ample other opportunities for something to go wrong. But your symptoms suggest that something to do with the pump control by the air flow switch is faulty.

Reply to
Dougal

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