Replacing Crossmember on a D1

hehehehehe - shouldnt be too dear matey, get a screwdriver into those corners mate.

Took the plastic off and the whole piece is rotten, needs fixing pronto, been quoted £300 to repair or around £600 to replace. Now I know why I got rid of my old 90, one job seems to follow another and the bargain you thought you had got turns into a moneypit !

That sounds way expensive matey, who was that from?

Stamford garage, SP can't do it, Old Mill don't weld but get someone in, might have to get a quote off them.

I would, or could we do it between us?

Haven't the first idea how to weld mate!

I did learn years ago, can't be that hard. I can use an angle grinder effectivly though!

I did my D90 after a lorry had bent one rear side of the rear cross member. It was rotten anyway.

I removed the rear tub which had to be replaced because it was bent, then spot welded a box section jig onto the chassis with a piece of flat bar along where the body bolts onto the cross member. I then marked all the bolt holes on the flat bar and only then cut off the cross member.

Don't forget to carefully measure where you will be welding on the new cross member. You need the X member with extensions. I cut a bit short so that I could grind down the chassis to get an exact fit, then spot welded it in place to line up with the bolt holes on the jig before completing the welding. £600 sounds like over kill to me!

The finished job was not 100% exact and I had to use some shims under the body but nothing noticeable and it flew through it's MOT!

Not a difficult job at all and I am no welder!

Derry

It's a Disco matey, same arrangement as the RRC, it's not a full crossmember, it's a smaller kind of thing.

Andy, is it the actual chassis or the body tub thats rusted out?

It's the body tub, box section that runs across the rear and joins the chassis rails and boot floor just behind the top of the rear bumper (under where the rear door closes). To replace it is a fair bit of work. The guy who looked at it reckons that the underside is OK, it has just rusted through on the top section where water sits so it can probably be plated up. Getting a full quote tomorrow so we'll see.

Right, thats more complicated than the rear chassis crossmember, but it should still able to be sorted less than that!!

Found a repair panel on the web for £125, will try and factor this in to a couple of days labour. 1 to cut out and prepare, the other to weld the new panel in, grind the seams and schultz it etc.

Have you spoke to Richard at Beamends? I got a repair panel for the RRC for £45, I would think that would be similar? Have you tried the Discovery centre at all?

On or around Wed, 15 Nov 2006 14:13:53 -0000, "Nige" enlightened us thusly:

speaking of which, just got some 1mm thick cutting discs and they're fookin' ace.

Makre sure your grinder will accept them - not everyone has the facilities to alter the grinder parts to accept thin discs.

mmmmmmmmm - i might get my grinder out of the shed & buy some!! ANNNNDDDYYYY - let me at it!!!

I remember my first disc explosion, i was doing some alterations to a MK1 RS2000 (that i fully rebuilt from scratch years ago) Glad i had goggles on!!