Seal where rear prop shaft meets diff is leaking

Awesome now I'm really confused.

I guess there are two axles out there -- the Rover type and Salisbury?

Sounds like on the Salisbury I can NOT just replace the pinion seal because the nut holding the flange on sets the pinion bearing preload and if I remove it I can't set it right without doing a rebuild?

Rover type uses shims or some such to set preload (don't understand how this works) and it's safe to remove the flange nut to replace the seal?

What does my USA-spec '95 Disco 1 have under it?

Anthony Hi,

Discos were fitted from the factory with only the Rover type rear axle.

Not a so difficult job to replace the seal.

Take care Pantelis

The only thing that may puzzle you is the stepped location pin that is Loctited (I think) into the drive flange and conceals the flange retaining nut.

I also seem to recall having had to drop the entire propshaft as there was insufficient collapse to allow the rubber doughnut to be removed.

Can you explain this in more detail? I'm having trouble picturing it.

You have mail - if you addy works!

Thanks! A picture is worth -- you know.

Anyway -- so that is pressed into the flange eh? Looks like the pin has an ID through it -- does that 1) go all the way through and 2)have threads on it?

If it is threaded and goes through, what's to stop me from threading a long bolt through it to push it out? Or, use a piece of pipe/socket wider than the pin, put a fender washer over the top, place it on the flange, and thread a bolt into the pin through the washer and pipe/ socket so that the assembly pulls the pin out?

I think so - so long ago that I can't remember.

No

Mine didn't provide much resistance: it almost fell out. I think that you'll be able to tap it (as in hammer) sideways to loosen it. The outside diameter doesn't need to remain pristine: just free of sharp edges.

It's Loctited in position, I think, and that will break down with the application of a little heat.

If all else fails, do as you suggest and run a tap up the inside and use that for whatever extraction method you wish to employ. Before you mark the bore you could try filling the bore with grease and using a tight but not too tight fitting rod as a piston to hydraulic the pin out.