im just starting a series chassis conversion, im putting on a range rover shortened chassis, and was just wondering if anyone can give me any advice on "how to`s" ,pitfalls i should be wary of, do`s and dont`s.
anything really, are ther any web sites out there that can help, im a bit wary of how to get bulkhead outriggers in the right place, and do i use the series ones or the rangey ones and how do i measure the correct place.
just looking for any help that may save me some time, im stripping the chassis to nothing, shotblasting it, then galving it, so sometime in this decade ill need to get the outriggers fitted.
Whatever you do dont just assume that the outriggers can be welded onto the chassis and the body will be the right hight - it won't, it'll be about 4" to high resulting in an utterly useless motor!
Hi, I have done this a few years ago !!! I am not saying this is how to do it ( you start entirely at your own risk ) but this is what I did, First the chassis and chassis number you use should be for the same registration you are going to use, i.e.- it sounds like you are building a series body on a Range Rover chassis, so the reg should relate to the old Range Rover NOT the Land Rover bodywork this should satisfy the points system to keep the reg number and not go " Q " !!!!
Cut the chassis down by 12 inches, behind the gearbox mounting points, this means you only need to shorten the rear prop, this gives a wheel base of 88 inches, next you must work from the back, start with rear body tub and rear cross member get this to the same sort of height as on a series land rover, and do the same sort of thing with the cross brace supports on the inside of the chassis rails to support the load area of rear tub, then work forward, this gives the height for the bulkhead, I used series out riggers all the way through, make sure these are right and then check again and again then weld up, then work forward with wings and this gives you the position of the front grill, I was very crafty and used a 101 bellhousing between the gear box and engine and got the rad in the front of the engine with an engine driven fan and kept the series 2A stepped in front panel :-)))))))) Good luck!!!!!!
If you want actual pics let me know what you want and I will see what I can do.............
Hi, I have done this a few years ago. I am not saying this is how to do it ( you start entirely at your own risk ) but this is what I did, First the chassis and chassis number you use should be for the same registration you are going to use, i.e.- it sounds like you are building a series body on a Range Rover chassis, so the reg should relate to the old Range Rover NOT the Land Rover bodywork this should satisfy the points system to keep the reg number and not go " Q "
Cut the chassis down by 12 inches, behind the gearbox mounting points, this means you only need to shorten the rear prop, this gives a wheel base of 88 inches, next you must work from the back, start with rear body tub and rear cross member get this to the same sort of height as on a series land rover, and do the same sort of thing with the cross brace supports on the inside of the chassis rails to support the load area of rear tub, then work forward, this gives the height for the bulkhead, I used series out riggers all the way through, make sure these are right and then check again and again then weld up, then work forward with wings and this gives you the position of the front grill, I was very crafty and used a 101 bellhousing between the gear box and engine and got the rad in the front of the engine with an engine driven fan and kept the series 2A stepped in front panel :-) Good luck
If you want actual pics let me know what you want and I will see what I can do.............
MotorsForum website is not affiliated with any of the manufacturers or service providers discussed here.
All logos and trade names are the property of their respective owners.