Series gearbox out - what should I do?

My SIII gearbox is currently sat on an engine stand...... Is there anything I should replace whilst it's out? The release bearing needs replacing, but are there any seals that I should replace or should I just leave it alone. Some of the springs need replacing, but apart from that it looks (and drove) without any problems. Thanks, Jon

Reply to
Jon
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How's the clutch plate looking? When I was last in your position I changed the clutch (although that was half the reason for having the gear box out anyway :o) ).

Don't want to put the gearbox back (and all the seats and the floor and the sundry trim) and 5,000 miles later have to change the clutch.

Cheers,

M
Reply to
McBad

If it's not broke then don't fix it. I can see the logic in your question though. I'd perhaps examine the transferbox output shaft seals, these often leak into the handbrake which is the last place you would want lubrication. That said it's not a hard job to do in situ bit infinately simpler if the box is out.

If you do any fixing and have a digi cam please send some piccys for the benifit of all who may just need that little extra confidence to do a similar job. (For inclusion in my piccys archieve - same for any other Landie fix come to think of it.)

Lee D

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Reply to
Lee_D

The transfer-box linkages are worth cleaning and lubricating, and they can be jammed by a bit of dried mud in the wrong place. Likewise, have a good look at the gear-stick and associated stuff. It can all be worked on without removing the box, but once you have the box out it's all easier. Gear-change awkwardness can be the selectors and detents on the gearbox top, or it can be wear on the end of the stick.

If you're not rushed, it could even be worth a thorough clean and repaint. It's not a big thing, but now is your chance. And check those awkward-to-reach parts of the chassis too.

Reply to
David G. Bell

lubrication.

OK I'll just scrape off the mud...... The clutch was replaced some 600 miles ago (18 months). I'll take pictures of anything I think is interesting....... Jon

Reply to
Jon

There's nothing awkward to reach on my chassis! I do, however, need to go to the other garage to attend to the bulkhead and bodywork..... Part of the braking system is conveniently located in the bedroom - the rest of the vehicle is spread about several shelves and buckets. I'm convinced that it'll all bolt back together, from memory, without any problems - after all, it is only a large Mechano set. What could possibly go wrong....... Jon

Reply to
Jon

I'd second this - At the least, take the handbrake drum off and check if its got any oil in it, and if so then do the seals. I dont enjoy doing any work on the handbrake drum with it in situ!

Reply to
Tom Woods

How were the syncros when on the road. If any were ropey, especially

1st/2nd I'd replace them whilst the box is out. Contrary to popular belief, stripping down/rebuilding a gearbox is not difficult, and I'd really reccommend it if your doing a full rebuild. If you were totally happy with it before, the least I'd do is to replace both output seals, and replace the gaskets on all the cover plates and the selector seals too. That way you won't get oil leaking out and collecting mud on your newly cleaned box / driveway (at least you hope you won't... It always seems to escape somewhere). When you take the selector cover off, make sure to fish out the detent balls with a magnet before taking the cover off. A magnetic screwdriver extension bar is a quality tool for the job!! If you fancy going down the full rebuild route, putting in all new bearings, syncros and a new mainshaft will give you change from £100!

Andy

Reply to
Andy Warner

OK - I've got all the books, so how many hours do you think it will take to perform a gearbox rebuild considering It's all new to me? Is there any special tools that I'd need? I've got a couple of three legged pullers. I'm going to replace the seals, and I'm now giving thought to the bearings anbd syncros. Jon

Reply to
Jon

I'd probably allow a day so you can take your time, and lay things out nicely. There are a few fiddly things, but even the Haynes book gives a pretty accurate description and order to it. It's best to treat it as 2 seperate units, G box and Xfer box. You can probably leave the transfer box alone apart from replacing the seals! Its best to separate the two before stripping the box down. That way its a good bit lighter to move around when its going back together.

All the best Andy

Reply to
Andy Warner

Thanks! Jon

Reply to
Jon

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