thermostat

I would normally watch the temperature gauge and look for it to drop when the thermostat opens and the water starts circulating around the radiator.

Cheers

Peter

Usual method is to get hold of the top hose off the rad if its getting warm right away 1-2 minutes its sticking open, if it doesnt get warm at all its stuck closed if after about 5 minutes running its cool but then starts getting warm under your then thats about right. I reckon the black art is properly bleeding most systems I've bled more than a few that have boiled over after a hose replacement just due to trapped air. Derek

William Hi again,

If you have not yet fitted the replacement thermostat the best way to check whether it is operating OK and at which temperature is activated is to put it in a pan with water and heat the water until the thermostat opens.

Using a thermometer (calibrated to above 100 degress Celsius of course) will allow you to also check and confirm the temperature where the thermostat will be opening.

Take care Pantelis

Pantelis,

Why have a thermometer above 100dgC? Most 'stats open are fully open around 88deg?

Cheers

Peter

Room for expansion. If you are measuring temperatures up to and around 100C then *obviously* that temperature needs to be around the middle range of the thermometer you are using to be accurate.

Martin

William Hi,

I am sorry if what I wrote can be misunderstood.

What I meant is to have a thermometer inside the pan before the water starts to boil.

As you already quoted most thermostats are fully open at around 88 degrees. But you will be able to check at EXACTLY what temperature the thermostat will fully open.

BTW I found that there is a 74 degrees thermostat for the V8 engines. Does anybody know whether such an item exists for the 200 Tdi engines also?

Take care Pantelis

I would venture to suggest (from experience on non-LR engines) that running a TDi at such temperatures may lead to acclerated bore wear.

The only reason I am considering using a 74 degrees thermostat is just because it is already TOO HOT here in Greece.

But what you suggest sounds logical in the point of view of keep the proper operating temperature for this engine.

Take care Pantelis

check - well it seems to pass to my uneducated internal temp sensors

I'd say hot rather than warm

sounds sensible ..

ok - I've run it for about 5 minutes with the cap off - is that long enough to bleed it through?

Asking because the engine is still running hot (not as hot as before fitting new thermostat). Fan (stage I & II) appears to kick in at sensible temperatures but have to use the cabin heater to reduce engine temp to 'normal'.

Any more clues welcome.

If you are having cooling issues then treat the cause not the symptom. A LR that won't stay cool under pretty much all conditions either has a fan or radiator problem - masking this problem with a lower temperature thermostat is unwise.

hot is good I'm a bit hard handed so my hot is a bit more so.

T'aint necessarily so depends on the evilness of the designer btw open the taps on the heater as well as the matrix can hold air and release it into the system after bleeding . Other tricks employed (engine off) are squeezing the top rad hose vigorously to flush water back and too, then take off the topmost hose on the block typically the top heater hose allow any bubbles to vent and pour water into it until it pours out of the other end. I have to ask tho' what motor are we talking about nothing french is it?

Don't discount a dodgy temp gauge we spent ages dicking about with a Volvo

460 before employing a temperature probe to prove the dash gauge was about as accurate as the weather forecast

Derek "A tremor in the Force. The last time I felt it was in the presence of my old master"

roger, rog - also just read someplace that running like this (cap off) can take up to 30 minutes to bleed - one for the morrow, tis getting dark now.

ok - thanks

'p' reg vw golf 1600 petrol

would be a real b'stard if the guage went dickie same time as the thermostat.

we'll see what happens - wtf don't these cooling systems come with bleed valves sited at the appropriate point(s)

cheers

Yes they do, there's a small diameter hose that bleeds continuously from the top of the radiator to the header tank and if you run the engine without the pressure cap fitted you can see a small jet of coolant entering the tank from the side. Otherwise if it's never had the cylinder head lifted it's possible the head gasket will be rotted and leaking. You will also need new head bolts if you replace the gasket.

Martin

Yep I loved that on the V8 3.5 brilliant piece of engineering.(shame about the electrics)

Derek

I have not posted this bit of info

and I will deny it to preserve what little credibility I have nor will I suggest looking at page 94 cos I have nothing but scorn for Hyenas manuals :-)Derek

Cautiously ... and after much gurgling & spluttering ... looks like another positive result for AFL - thanks.