How do I tell when the valve seats start to wear?
What's the most cost-effective way of converting to unleaded? Can I just whack in new seats myself or is this a specialist job? Or would I better off getting the Turner Stage 1 head replacement?
How do I tell when the valve seats start to wear?
What's the most cost-effective way of converting to unleaded? Can I just whack in new seats myself or is this a specialist job? Or would I better off getting the Turner Stage 1 head replacement?
The tappets close up and it loses compression. You can reset the tappets and get a bit more running out of it after that.
Fitting new seats is a job for a professional with the right tools. A Turner head would be nice and probably worth it from a performance and economy point of view. However I'd just run what you've got until it fails then revisit the problem.
On or around Wed, 16 Mar 2005 20:55:29 +0000 (UTC), Dan Burdge enlightened us thusly:
valve clearances disappear, followed by poor running as the valves don;t seat properly.
It might not happen.
specialist job, if you have a local engine-machining type, they should be able to do it for you or you can exchange the head as you say.
Thanks for the replies. Any idea what kind of mileage I am looking at before this happens? I presume that valve seat wear happens reasonably slowly and I'll just get a small performance decrease as compression drops. No chance of catastrophic failure?
Extended high speed running will make it happen quicker. No two vehicles are the same either. Just make a point of checking the valve clearances occasionally - when you have had to adjust it much it'll be time to act before your vehicle fails to proceed.
When we had to overhaul the engine, the head was taken to our local specialist, who did the seats for A$100, and the distributor to local 'leccy specialist, who for the same fee changed the advance/retard rates as recommended.
As the engine was in bits anyway, that A$200 was the total cost of conversion to ULP. Now all it needs is a new fuel tank as the top of this tank leaks when near full, and no-one round here is insane enough to want to re-solder it for me.
Karen
2.25 Petrol in S3 109 now running on unleaded after last of local garages stopped selling LRP. I know from previous posts that advice is to run on unleaded until the valve seats wear and then convert. So a couple of questions:How do I tell when the valve seats start to wear?
What's the most cost-effective way of converting to unleaded? Can I just whack in new seats myself or is this a specialist job? Or would I better off getting the Turner Stage 1 head replacement?
It depends on your style of driving. Pootling around country lanes is less wearing than blasting down the motorway.
Can you still get petrol additive?
There's also some time-lag before wear starts. because there's lead, or the replacement, still in the metal's surface layer.
I don't think it will, there is a lot else that is going to fail before then. I just keep on putting in the unleaded.
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