2001 1.2 Corsa no MOT, what next.

Fix it.

Better the devil you know. Judging by the recent experience trying to find my brother a cheap runaround, you're going to have all hell on finding anything remotely worthwhile under £1000. Anything sub £5-£600 is going to have issues.

Ok.

That was one of my thoughts but I wasn't sure if it carried any weight in this situation (at that mileage / particular jobs etc).

Understood.

So, on that then, even if they did it up (just) to sell it would be worth doing so.

I'll pass that back ta.

Cheers, T i m

p.s. I have a std pivoting action ball joint splitter that I've used plenty on track_rod_ends and lower steering ball joints (from my Morris Minor days ). Would that be suitable for the suspension drop links as they look a bit smaller. I've also got him to buy a half decent 1/2" sq dr socket set up there and pre-spray the nuts / bolts with penetrating fluid. Whatabout the outer CV gaitors. Do the split ones actually work?

What about the outer CV gaiters. Do the split ones actually work?

About long enough to get to the MOT station, as long as it's fairly local...

Chris

Ah, that bad eh? ;-(

I did have a little Google and found a forum where folk had used them and whilst there seems to be a bit of a technique re gluing them together, once glued and attached they seemed to work ok?

I'm not suggesting they are a 'good' solution of course but was hoping they might be good enough to get it through the MOT and even down here so I can fit a proper pair?

Cheers, T i m

Yep, that's about all they are good for.

Chris

Ok, well in light of their dislocation (360 miles), their lack of experience and tools that may be sufficient. ;-)

On the lower wishbone thing, is there a typical weak spot (like replaceable pressed in bushes) that they all fail on or can it be anything?

Again, if they got an 'advise', would it be something me and my 10 tonne press could do cheaper (than buying a new wishbone)?

Cheers, T i m

if it is advise then leave it till it fails

genuine vauxhall arms complete are 25.95 retail each, so it is not worth stuffing about changing bits on an old one.

Noted.

Oh, right, I didn't think they would be that cheap so yes, change the whole thing.

Ok, are there any gotchas when changing them please? Bolts or spacer tubes that won't come out etc (I know I have had that with the inner track control arms on my MkII Escort based kit car. (Now Polybushes / stainless)).

Is it just a matter of:

Jack / prop vehicle Remove road wheel Remove drop link Remove lower ball joint from leg Remove arm mount bolts

Fit new arm ... ?

Cheers, T i m

(I'm going to pick up a Haynes manual for him (trade)).

sounds right, tighten everything up with weight on wheels and get retracked after.

Sweet, thanks.

So the drop link and lower ball joints on these Corsas, would I be able to split them with this type do you know please?

I think the track rod ends would be ok as they are generally sticking out in fresh air but I'm not sure about the others.

Thanks again, T i m

the splitter in the picture is the right type of design, but a very crude version, I would not buy one of those if I were you. I have a very similar one which I had to chop, weld and grind in order to get it to be usable, it would fit somethings like track rod ends ok, but anything slightly concealed and it was in trouble. the one I ended up with has adjustable pin height and is more nicely made meaning it gets in under the steering knuckle better. drop links are not taper, I can't remember on your corsa whether the bottom ball joint is taper, but usually vauxhalls are

It's actually what I've got and have used on pretty well everything ball-joint wise since my Moggy Minors. However I will agree with you that it wasn't always a good / easy fit.

But, if it was considered the 'right tool' for the job I might have posted it up to them in Scotland. If not I might suggest they get something more suitable locally (or delivered from eBay).

That was my fear.

But more expensive presumably? Within reason I don't mind getting it for them and chucking it in my tool box afterwards. You can never have too many tools. ;-)

OK, good (easier to do presumably then).

I think an image I saw on eBay looked like they were.

Thanks again, T i m

(I've just spoken to daughter over IM and she seems to prefer the Corsa to the Ka if for no more than the Corsa is 4 door. I've said we are happy for her to have it instead of the Ka presuming the Corsa wouldn't be much more complicated or expensive to run and keep running).

they both have faults but I would choose the corsa all else being equal.

the bj splitter have got was expensive and I can't remember the make, but probably MAC tools

Haven't read the rest of the thread yet, but the only real answer for droplinks is "Angle Grinder".

CV boots have to be done the old fashioned way.

If the suspension arms are out or at least the bottom balljoints, its not going to be a biggie to do a boot as long as you crack the hub nut while the car is on the ground.

Strange, but I can't ever remember cutting off a drop link, just get decent tools and maybe a blowtorch. there is no need to undo the hub nut to change the cv boot, on many cars there is not even any need to take off the wheel, but at home it is probably easiest, but I would still leave the hub nut alone, just leave the cvjoint in the hub and separate the shaft (after undoing the bottom ball joint. the weight of the hub makes reconnecting the joint easy.

Oh really? What bit doesn't want to move then? (They have an angle grinder up there cos daughter uses it for sanding her chainsaw carvings). ;-)

Ok ...

So does the shaft pull / tap out of the CV joint? Is there any chance of the shaft pulling out of the gearbox / diff?

Daughter has ordered a Haynes BOL from eBay today and he's been giving all the nuts and bolts a good spraying with penetrating fluid.

He sent me some photos of all the bits and I couldn't see how the rear wishbone mount bolt would come out? I can see the pointed end of the bolt pointing forwards and a fair size nut but I can't see from the pic where the head is or how you would get to it.

On this model, is there any captive stuff that is known to shear off and leave the inexperienced in the poo?

Thanks for the help.

Cheers, T i m

Vauxhall cv joints are held on with a special circlip that needs to be opened up to let the shaft out, there are special tools to do it, but you can use circlip pliers or needle nose pliers or even the right width flat screwdriver. yes you can pull the shaft out of the box, but there should not be any need for much force while separating the shaft. a strategic pair of mole grips can anchor the shaft in place.

can't remember ever having to change the arms, so don't worry about how they are fixed (as it has not failed on them), but I'll bet it is straightforward.

the nuts for the drop links can be very tight to remove, which is why you need a blow lamp and a pair of thin mole grips to get them off without an angle grinder.

I have cut the bolt on several drop links. Saved the heartache of worn balljoints spinning aimlessly in their worn plastic bushes. Make sure both wheels are off the ground. DAMHIKIJDOK?

I'll confess to never having replaced a boot without renewing the joint at the same time. And the last one I did was a Passat. And I didn't undo the bottom balljoints. (c: I changed the alternator belt on a Corsa once.

My experience of not having an air impact wrench is that the rust holding the nut onto the threaded part is stronger than what's left of the inside of the balljoint so when you turn it, the ball rotates in its cup and doesn't unscrew.

Sometimes there is a cheese hex or torx shaped hole in the end, or space to clamp the threads, or flats for a ground-thin spanner but I get much more satisfaction and fewer grazed knuckles by cutting the nut off with an angry grinder.

I've never done a Corsa. But I've cut them off a couple of 205s and

I am rambling. Haynes, as you mention below could be the future. Along with angle grinder, IMHO.

-- Douglas