No it isn't, we (ie you) were talking about Wagg's car, I put it to you that without tyres his car would top out at it's top speed due to running out of revs. I said that if you put tyres on, it would go faster, I stand by that.
It was a lighthearted remark in response to a daft question from you, remember ? :)
e
On the inside of the rims they say 6.5J x 16, 4 stud. I haven't measured the rest of the bits mentioned above, and cant do that till I go back to work on Wednesday. The tyres that came off were 225/60 R16's if that helps.
-Ben
Wagg gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:
They're the important bits.
Not really...
Most modern stuff is, yes, but that's because it's "phat" to put ordinary family cars on 18s; a lot of the older Ford stuff is true to the name "lightweight alloy." Those iffy-styled alloys I had on Kermy (5.5J 13") were lighter than the steelies (5J 13") and the same as the alloys (5J 14"). I could easily get the overall mass down by spending a lot of money on progressively lurid sounding wheels.
The fashion for alloys was fuelled by the use of magnesium alloy wheels on competition cars in the 70's. (Minilite were, and still are, the only ones worth having). Manufacturers soon cashed in on this by copying the style, but in aluminium alloy.
Apart from the fact that they often need to be heavier than steel wheels when made of cast aluminium, their rigidity will often impart much heavier loads into the suspension in certain types of accident. This can cause damage with the potential to write off an older car, where it may have only needed a new wheel and tyre if a steel one was fitted.
Although they are fitted now to everything bar "poverty spec", it really is a case of form over function. It's a pity the human race is so easily fooled :-)
Chris
The other number you should be looking out for is ET** (where the ** are numbers) this will define the offset this determines where the flange is in relation to the rim.
Alan...
That'll be why they're so common on modern rally cars.
Handy for removing braking heat as well though, see plods experience with XR4is.
Alan Smith gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:
Clarification - the other bits (PDC, offset and pilot bore) are the important ones, not the rim width & diameter.
Umm, yes, that's why I mentioned the offset earlier.
Oh dear.
Hows your wife today? She was complaining that she's sick of you sitting in front of the telly all night as she was riding my c*ck.
Is that better thermal conduction, or the fact that alloys often have bigger gaps for air?
Well minilites where apparently designed to increase the airflow over the brakes directly, apparently the conduction helps as well, I imagine it depends on the wheel & the vehicle.
And you can still have Minilites however you want. In Ka fitment they offered light and expensive, lighter and more expensive and lightest and stupidly expensive. I seem to recall prices were something like £90 through £300 through £800 for the options.
Some Kas have Minilite-styled alloys too... ;)
Vanity, innit?
My neighbour's daughter has a 57-plate one with wheels that certainly
*look* like Minilites.
Yes - and I had the idea before Ford did! ;)
They are, however, the same mass as Ford's ordinary alloys...
In message , DervMan writes
Not entirely. I like alloys because wheel discs are an additional nuisance if you have to change a wheel, and if you lose one you almost always have to buy a new set. I see so many at the roadside that it seems a frequent occurrence. ;-)
OTOH, those monster trucks with blacked out windows and wheel discs which keep on turnin' when they're stationary...
Wheel discs?
Hub caps? Wheel trims?
Hub caps have some purpose. Wheel trims are to look pretty. Rover used to sell standard and luxury wheel trims on the 100 back in the day heh.
Anyway, wheel trims are for vanity purposes... ;-P
In message , DervMan writes
8-) Wheel trims, such a long time since I had any.
Yes, I had caps on my last Mondeo wheels.
Course they are!
e
Right, Looking at them the offset is ET46, the diameter appears to be
73mm for the centre hole, and what I think the PCD is, is 4 studs, the distance from the centre of one stud hole to the other is 75mm.Does that help?
-Ben
Wagg gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:
The distance between two adjacent bolt holes? Or two diagonally opposite?
4x75 sounds very small - so I'm assuming adjacent, which would be 4x106.A quick google suggests 4x108 is the most likely close size to that.
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