CV joint boot replacement

Hello All,

How do you get a CV Joint to part company with a driveshaft, in order to fit a replacement CV boot? I'm currently trying it on a '96 Honda Accord, but it doesn't want to play. I have dismantled the whole thing o.k. so that the driveshaft is sticking out with just the CV joint on the end of it. Have also cut away the old boot, which was in two pieces!

As I understand it, the usual way is to hold the driveshaft by hand and (with the old CV boot cut away) just give the CV housing a good sharp whack with a lump hammer. A bit brutal, but I think it's necessary to squeeze the circlip (or sprung ring) enough to make it let go. No joy so far though. Suspect I'm not successfully stopping the driveshaft from moving. I bought one of those trumpet-like tools to let a neoprene cv boot slide over it. The trouble is, the replacement split before I had got it over the trumpet, even though I made sure the boot was warm first. From how tight and limited in flexibility it was, I'm sure the Motor Factors have given me a synthetic boot, NOT a neoprene one. Drat! Will have to ask them for a new one in the morning.

I've tried two of the supposedly o.k. "split" cv boots that you glue together, but found them a disaster. It's so easy to get a bit of grease on an edge and the split boot is immediately rendered completely useless.

So in summary: What's the best way to "shock" an (outer) CV joint off a driveshaft? What's the best way to hold the driveshaft so that it doesn't keep moving outwards with the joint when it's hit with the hammer?

TIA,

Michael.

Reply to
trickymicky
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if there is no circlip to be removed first (look very carefully) get the whole shaft off and put in a vice, either a good whack or two tyre levers will then remove it, or at a push remove the other end cv and put the boot on from there.

mrcheerful

Reply to
mrcheerful

The message from michael snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (trickymicky) contains these words:

Depends on the design. Some just come apart with a sharp knock on the inner race. Hold the shaft in the vice, hold a cold-chisel against the shoulder of the inner bit and whack it.

The other alternative to the truly dire stickyboots is stretchyboots which you use with a cone and plenty of slippy to do a sort of gynocologist's trick.

Reply to
Guy King

...But don't take both driveshafts out at the same time unless you're positive that major parts of the innards won't fall to the bottom of the box. Just something I read in a manual once that's worth remembering if you're doing both.

Si

Reply to
Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot

news:rec.autos.makers.honda is your friend. Someone on there is bound to have done it on a 96 Accord.

HTH, Al

Reply to
Al Reynolds

been there.

everything revolves on keeping the CVjoint from moving when you whack it.if it moves,part of the force applied is being wasted

mount the driveshaft vertically securely in a large vice (buy this if you dont have one), with the outer cv joint at the bottom.

the hard part is the clamping as drive shafts are usually smooth to avoid cutting the boot when slid over it.some people use aluminum protectors.i say if you cant get a good grip file an inch of the shaft a bit, and later cover file d part with tape to avoid it tearing boot.

then whack it with the heaviest metal hammer you can handle, you will need a brass rod to direct the blow. make sure you have thought of something or someone to catch it when it goes.

let us know how it turned out.good luck

Reply to
beerismygas

Thanks fo the tips.

Skipweasel, you were right on this occasion - I fitted a stretchyboot. What I had not done was use some Comma silicone spray. Trying it with grease was hopeless but the silicone spray made all the difference.

Job done! Al - thanks for the Honda ref.

Regards,

Trickymicky.

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Reply to
trickymicky

The message from michael snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com (trickymicky) contains these words:

Had to happen eventually.

Reply to
Guy King

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