Daytime Running Lights and indicators

Only if you don't care about the law.

Firstly, bulbs for car use are required to be e-marked. Those in the listing linked to won't be.

Those 50Watt in line series resistors suggest a poor power supply design and maybe a substantial heatsink is required for mounting the resistors.

I must admit to knowing nothing about electronics and/or power supplies but as far as I know the resistors are there to stop the CANbus system throwing 'light out' errors and to stop the indicators from 'hyperflashing' as they do when a lamp is out. I was just going to bolt them to a suitable mounting place on the inner wings or any other bracket/crossmember or whatever that presents itself - but I was definitely going to keep them away from anything plastic.

I did think it strange that in the description it says that the bulbs are CANbus compliant with no need to connect resistors anymore but then the thing seems to be supplied with resistors already wired up :-?

Those 50Watt in line series resistors suggest a poor power supply design and maybe a substantial heatsink is required for mounting the resistors.

Indeed, though they're being run at 24-32W (6 ohms @ 12-14V) and the indicators are only flashing occasionally. So they're likely not getting too hot - unless perhaps you leave hazards flashing for long periods. They roughly match 21W indicator bulbs.

Though I can't work out where the power for daytime running comes from - do you have to run a separate wire from the ignition?

Theo

If you scroll down to the large photos the resistors are across the red/black input wires, from the bulb connections, and there is a separate white wire and fuse for the DRLs. The resistors are just to provide the required load for bulb sensing and have nothing to do with the indicator loading.

Any electronics to switch the DRL lights off when the indicators flash must be inside the led housing itself, and what are the chances of that, because the supply is intended to be constant when the ignition is on.

Especially when the description says: 2x brighter than the stock T20/7440 turn signal bulb

But are they when installed in a lamp unit with reflector designed for a tungsten bulb? LED makers seem to use different lumens from everyone else.

Just to be pedantic, as you own link states, they need to *dim* when the headlights are on. (The dealer-fitted ones on my car dim with the sidelights on)

Point stands though, these clearly aren't going to do that.

Plus the installation looks decidedly messy, don't see why they couldn't use self contained mosfets as the Canbus load - probably cheaper than the resistors as well ;)

If you are go* They go off automatically when you switch your headlights on

• They don't have to be separate lights and are sometimes combined with the
• front position lamps (side lights). If this is the case, the DRLs dim when
• the headlights are turned on

So they don't *need* to dim. They need to turn off, unless combined with a front position lamp when they may dim.

Chris

What it doesn't have is 3rd wire to the side lamps that either switches them off or dims them to side lamp intensity when side lamps are on. No law against any number auxiliary side lamps but an undirected unfocused

Relay 1. Coil feed from fuel pump. Power from battery via fuse. Output from N/O contact to relay 2. Relay 2, coil feed from side lamp, output from N/C contact to "DLR" on leds.

This should be > Anybody got any experience of these:

Clearly won't work on lamps that have amber filters and not amber bulbs. That would usually be the cars that are old enough not to have DLR as standard.

Fairy snuff, I wasn't even aware that *additional* DRLs were road legal.

On the "E" approval sheet for the ones fitted to my car, it states that the approval is only valid if the existing front position lamps are disabled.

That's a great idea Peter, thanks.