electrical sealing silicone

If it is a connector and you might want to access the joints/components in the future just a layer of silicone grease will insulate it. It's what is inside the BT telephone cables; sticky stuff but it does keep water at bay! Washing it off takes a bit of doing but can be done or you can get conformal coating (melts with the heat of a soldering iron) or lastly potting compound. This is the black rubberised or hard epoxy that you can get to totally seal electrical components but you'll never be able to get into it again after it has been applied.

Vaseline. Easily removed too

Melts too easily.

And rots the condom.

Oh, sorry. Wrong newsgroup.

Ian

Why not just do the job properly and use heatshrink if you've stripped too much insulation off or cut and terminate the wire if you don't want a contact to "contact" as it were?

Why the f*ck do people still bodge stuff that can potentially set their car alight long after they've got out of it?

who said it was to do with a wire or a bodge?

"for auto wiring?"

This to me says its to do with a wire!!!

auto electronics!!

Please tell me where manufacturers use silicone sealant in electronics?

Silicone grease. Used to insulate and as a thermal conductive paste

Err that's not silicone sealant, you can buy it in Maplins.

Pitch is far better but difficult to obtain these days.

Thanks for confirming you don't have any idea whatsoever.

That's for use on switches, terminals and connectors, rubber O rings, door seals....mainly as a lubricant.

Yup, you'd want to use

Automotive wiring connecters are commonly 'filled' with silicone grease to prevent corrosion, etc. But not silicone sealant.

Heatshrink is only the covering and not the actual connection. Apart from soldering the connection the best connector is a terminal (choc) block. Wrapped with good quality PVC tape stretched around it and it will last forever providing it doesn't get wet. Having said that good quality tape will last for decades in all weather as the coax taped down my TV aerial mast on my roof testifies.

Why should anything catch fire. Unless some tosser connects something that does not have a fuse. This is very common in my experience. Mosts cars and vans I've bought have some unfused wiring going back to the battery.

ALWAYS put a fuse close to the battery if not getting a fused feed via the vehicle electrics. My car has a 50 amp inline fuse mounted close to the battery terminal (a couple of inches). This feeds all the car electrics, except of course the starter.

Why do you lot let foul-mouthed conor behave like a lout all of the time? I've said before Conor, leave the tirades for when it's really needed. Not all the time as then you have nothing more when you really want to slag off a pillock on here.

Mark

The most reliable type of connection is a properly crimped one. (Better in most respects than a soldered one in fact.) Both are several orders of magnitude superior to connector strip.

Normal electrical quality PVC tape is most definitely *not* suitable for use outdoors; there are PVC tapes that can be used in such circumstances, but self-amalgamating tape will generally provide better protection from wet, and better support for the joint.

There are very few vehicles built in the last twenty years that have any significant amounts of unfused wiring. On some vehicles, the +ve battery terminal is actually a fusible link; perhaps you were unaware of that?

You obviously don't have a car with a heated front screen then...

How do you suggest "we" stop him? This is Usenet, not some web-based forum with a membership requirement!

Conor does have an abrasive manner, but much of the information he imparts is relevant. The same can't be said for all of Usenet!

If you find him such a problem, why not take the time to find out how to killfile him, instead of posting the nonsense you have written here?

Chris (Electrical tech who's so old he remembers using cloth insulating tape!)