engine oil flush products

Feb 01, 2006 11 Replies

What do people think of the use of engine oil flush additives when changing the oil? Could it help clean out any possible gunge in the oil pick up pipe on an old cavalier (1994, 130k mile) engine? or are they a waste of time/money?...



The oil presure warning light has started to come on intermittently (both when hot / cold) ... I know this could be real bad news (oil pump ... ) ... but as the car is not worth much I've decided to try a few cheaper options... like change the oil / filter (Its 10k since the last change)... and possibly the oil pressure warning switch (if I can get to it!) .... thinking that anything more serious is not economical to repair?



AJ



Waste of time as you dislodge all the old rubbish from the engine together with corrosion. That tends to block other parts of the engine especially if you have hydraulic lifters! Just change the oil regularly.

The message from "john" contains these words:

Much as Seagoon once complained that Grytpype-Thynne had blown all the egg-stains off his suit. "Is that bad" asked Eccles. "Yes, they were all that was holding it together".

I've seen elderly engines die suddenly after being flushed.

I agree. At this stage and assuming that it is not the sender playing up, some fresh 20w/50 oil would be the best bet.

Huw

Change the oil pressure light switch. If this doesn't make a difference fit a new engine. But wait until the old one fails first. Actual oil pressure is far less important than most think. Low oil pressure only matters if accompanied by bearing noise at all times.

If all else fails, get the sump off and check the strainer. It's a cheap job to do yourself (albeit yucky) and well worth trying if only for the

certainty it brings. There's no solution in a can for this one.

-- S.C.

Waste of time. Far better shoving in a quart of ATF fluid and running it for 15 minutes. REmoves the varnishing without dislodging bits of solid crap.

Nope.

Cavvy engines must be in the £50 bracket from a scrappies. Oil pump is dead easy to do but make sure you get the cover machined.

Although it's quite often just the spring & plunger on the pressure release valve. Which you used to be able to do without removing the pump.

Well - I changed the oil / filter & the oil pressure warning light ... and maybe just in time as it had started making a distinct "clicking" sound coming from the top of the engine .... taken it for a 12 mile run ... all smooth / quiet and no oil warning light...

So thanks again for the good advice from the group....AJ

PS ... Actually, after I first changed the oil / filter ... it was still making the "clicking" sound coming from the top of the engine... I took off the filler cap while... no oil was getting thrown out... stopped and started it a couple of time, revved it a couple of goes ... then something good happened ... splatters of oil started to be thrown out ... put the cap back on ... engine (tappets?) stopped clicking ... red light went out, and its been good since... well for the rest of today ...

Suggests to me there was some clogging stopping the oil circulating, which has now cleared? Fingers crossed (though I suspect @ 130k miles... its probably on borrowed time)...

thanks AJ

( snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

When you start it up after changing the oil and filter, the filter is empty. Since that's the first stop on the oil's journey around the engine, it takes a moment or three for the filter to fill before the oil can start to circulate.

you could be right there ... though it felt closer to a minute ... anyway heres hoping ... AJ

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