Well, my garage which I have used for 10 years charges ?6 for one oil flush.
I dunno what he actually does. But he has looked after me for 10 years.
He came out to me and my sick wife when the car broke down. I trust him.
but you are not questioning it and are presumably happy with being
charged for it, the OP has paid it, yet is clearly unhappy to have paid
it, yet has not questioned it with the places that charged it!
On Fri, 24 Aug 2018 19:06:36 +0100, "Mr Pounder Esquire"
Isn't it just a lighter / thinner / cheaper(?) oil that is really only
used for flushing the engine out, after say a rebuild or big service?
You replace the old oil with it, run the engine gently up to temp and
the drain and fill with proper oil?
Cheers, T i m
That is one type.
There is also a type you add, I assume some kind of 'cleaning agent', to
the old oil.
On YouTube, people use various things- I'm not sure I'd trust.
While it could be because I tend to keep my engines 'clean', I'm dubious
how much 'gunge' a short flush would remove going by the fact that when
I change my oil, it still looks clean for some time- weeks at at least-
so it isn't absorbing any muck left in the engine.
Wouldn't filling an engine with 4 to 5 litres of flushing oil cost more
than £10 especially when considering the labour costs for anpther fill
and drain? To be effective it may also need a replacement oil filter for
the flush which is discarded once the flush oil is drained. This is
assuming that an aggressive cleaning (thin) oil doesn't damage the
engine while its being run.
Running the engine in the garage, at low revs, with no load, for long
enough to warm up the flushing oil etc, isn't likely to do much harm-
certainly if balanced against the removal of any 'gunge' in the case of
a dirty engine.
Whether such a short period is enough to be effective is another
question- at least if the flushing oil doesn't have some good solvent
The Stock Market Crashes of 1929 and 2008 happened on the same
It may well loosen some flakes of crud from the inner surfaces of the
engine which can then clog the oil strainer, leading to starvation of
oil pressure and a wrecked engine (this was quite a common fault on
early cvh engines)
Regular oil changes as per maker's schedule using good quality oil is
the correct solution.
I reckon that I wrecked my MK2 Escort engine doing something similar -
ie adding a 'highly recommended' anti-sludging additive to the engine
oil. Soon afterwards, when driving happily along, the engine suddenly
started sounding like a ratting can of nails. Leaving it for a minute or
two before continuing usually cleared the problem for a short while
(especially if I drove slowly). I suspected an oil blockage, but getting
the local garage to blow out the oilways didn't cure it. I think there
was possibly a flap of partially released sludge somewhere, and that it
would keep getting sucked up and blocking something. Since then, I feel
it's usually better to 'let sleeping dogs lie'.
The coarse filter in the sump can sometimes give you warning of
inpending doom by putting the oil light on when too many flakes bolck
the sump filter, you turn the engine off, the flakes fall off and away
you go, for a while.
I found that the crossflow pumps were quite susceptible to sludging up
internally and I saw several engines wrecked by this. Happily changing
the oil pump was easy on that engine, but usually came too late, I have
an idea there are still a couple of new pumps in the garage, should go
on ebay, anything for early escort sells.
Indeed, that has always been my philosophy and was the advice from my
trusted mechanic when I mentioned flushing to him some years back out of
I've wondered about the 'draining' of oil by sucking it out of the
dipstick tube. Doesn't seem like a good idea to me.
Short of stripping an engine down, you can't get rid of all old oil by
draining it anyway. If a car is serviced properly, the oil is changed long
before it degrades to any significant degree. That can be proved by having
*How can I miss you if you won't go away?
Dave Plowman email@example.com London SW
I must admit, we rarely do the number of miles specified for a service
these days- the services are done on time- so that is certainly true on
Having said that, I know someone who insists he never changes his oil,
just tops it up. Last time I saw him, he had one VERY old vehicle (a
diesel) which was still going, although not used every day.
I think he tended to change his other vehicles every few years, and they
tended to be bought s/h.
IIRC (but I might be wrong), some time ago there was a test using a
fleet of taxis in Prague. At the normal service intervals, some had new
oil and oil filter, some had only new oil, and some had only a new
filter. It was found that there was least wear and tear in the engines,
and generally higher reliability, with those that only had a new filter.
Back in the early nineties, I worked for West Midlands Fire service,
fixing radios, turnout equipment, and computers.
They had fleet of H-plate Astramax vans with the 1.7L non-turbo diesel
engine. The manufacturers oil change interval was something daft like
4500 miles IIRC (when a petrol was 9000).
As you might expect, the vehicle workshops did the servicing, rather
than sending it to a dealer, and they generally did it on a time basis.
This was fine for all the station vans that did very few miles- hydrant
inspections, chippy runs, moving the odd bit of kit to another station etc.
Our van, however, was in use pretty much all day every day, and often at
night as well, driving over the entire county, heavily laden, and
mercilessly thrashed. We were based in central Birmingham, covered from
NW Wolverhampton to SE Coventry, and one guy lived in Telford, so it
racked up the miles at a huge rate, and thanks to the schedule, only one
or two oil changes in ~60k miles IIRC. It got checked/topped up
regularly, at least once a week at on-call handover.
It gradually got more rattly (bearing inn mind that as a early 90s GM
diesel, it was never quiet), and felt slower. Cam follower noise. One
Friday afternoon, it was my turn on call, and I took the van home.
Within a few yards of home, a nasty clunk, and the engine died. Managed
to coast it to my house, and it got recovered. The camshaft had seized,
and broken up. It ended up with a new cylinder head, but was never the
same again. Our next van got serviced a lot more....
If you've ever cleaned the insides of an old engine, you'd realise it
can't be done with another oil. You get a build up of burnt on deposits
that take some shifting. But actually don't do any harm, provided the oil
has been changed correctly and on time.
*Beware - animal lover - brakes for pussy*
Dave Plowman firstname.lastname@example.org London SW
On Sat, 25 Aug 2018 11:21:42 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
Ok. What-if <devils-advocate etc> ... you drained your oil, added a
flushing oil (and assuming it had greater solvent abilities than a
straight oil), ran it up for a while, drained again and got out more
dirty oil than was just left over from the initial drain?
But it's not about 'flushing' that sort of thing is it? It's supposed
to move more old oil and sludge than a conventional oil (change)
Cheers, T i m
p.s. A motorbike I was working on for daughters friend recently leaked
some petrol into the sump. It was run (slowly) with this very mild
petrol to oil mix ... so do you think this 'oil' would have flushed
any gunge out or not?
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