Engine tone - rough at times and not others

Sorry about the subject title, but I couldn't think of how to describe my problem. I have a 2002 Renault Megane, 1.6 petrol. The car always runs and never breaks down, but the running is simply not consistent. I've had it to all the dealers in my area countless times and all they do is check for error codes, of which none are recorded, and say therefore there is nothing wrong. Its got to the point now that if I book it in, later they say they cant fault it, even though it has only been driven round the back to hook it up to their computers. The car runs fine from cold, accelerates cleanly and quietly, and will stay like this for the length of my journey. However, if the car is started when warm, then I get random cases where the quiet smooth running is replaced by a deep gruff 'boom', most notable under acceleration and at higher revs. Sometimes, after a bad journey, the car can then run well again when restarted. The problem doesn't always arise, and the car can run for days without a problem, and then on one journey it is suddenly doing it again. Of course, it always seems to run well when at the dealers. I've had all the dealers check it over for exhaust problems and air leaks, but nothing is found, and they tell all me my car is fine. Different brands of petrol don't affect it, not even Optimax, and it is as if the car picks a random set of values each time it is started warm and runs with them. The car always idles quietly and smoothly, even when accelerating is really rough.

Would anyone know, what could be happening to the car to make it run like this? I thought maybe a sensor could be wrong, affecting the fuelling, but I suppose the computer check at the dealer would see this, which it doesn't. Would it be worth taking it to a local independent garage where they could check sensor values while the car is being driven, or is that not possible? The local dealers are unwilling to go into this kind of detail because they dont experience the problem. A local garage offers 'crypton tuning' services - would they have the kind of gear required to check these things on the move?

Sorry for so many questions. Im getting nowhere with local dealers, so I am looking at other avenues. The car is fine to drive when normal, but unbearable when its got this boominess to it.

Thanks for reading, any suggestions or help appreciated.

Ben

Reply to
Benn65pl
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Benn65pl ( snipped-for-privacy@aol.com) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying :

Anybody would think "good old fashioned" problems just don't happen any more.

Has your dealer got their head out of their diagnostic computer for long enough to check that the exhaust is properly hung and properly aligned?

It sounds as if heat soak and expansion is possibly causing something to come into contact intermittently.

Reply to
Adrian

Dunno about your specific problem, but I had an annoying intermittent failure on my 1999 Megane 1.6 (K4M engine), which would periodically refuse to start when warm. Turned out to be the TDC sensor, which wasn't bad (got one for 20 quid from the dealer, and easy to fit). Surprisingly, though, this didn't cause a fault code (well, it didn't light the dashboard ECU light, anyway), even though it was an electronic problem.

So, don't rely upon the diagnostic computer to find every problem! Sadly, dealers are doing that more and more these days...

Bring back Proper Mechanics!

Brian.

Reply to
Brian Ruth

Thanks for responding. I've had the exhaust checked over by the dealers and also a visual check by the local exhaust fitters, who all said it appears to be fine. The strange thing is that the car -can- run perfectly well when run from warm, so would that rule out this kind of problem in that would do it every time? Life would be much easier if it did it every time, as I could prove to the dealer that it is happening.

Thanks again.

Ben.

Reply to
Benn65pl

I had a problem years ago when my car developed symptoms exactly like a duff condenser produces - ticks over fine but doesn't like being revved. So I changed the condenser and it was fine. Then it did it again a few miles later. Eventually I discovered that the air cleaner element had partially disintegrated and a piece of cardboard was stuck in the carburettor intake, producing a variable choking effect. I wonder whether you have something in the primary airways.

Rob Graham

Reply to
Robin Graham

I had similar booming intermittantly on our 1997 Megane Turned out to be one of the twin coils breaking down. £50 later and sorted

HTH Phil

Reply to
Phil

I was out this afternoon in the car and on one of the journeys it did its thing, so I tried to find a pattern. The main thing I noticed, which hopefully somebody may be able to explain, is that if I labour the engine, driving it in too high a gear (which I don't routinely do) I get the normal gruff rumble which any car gets. If the car is running properly, when the revs get up to the minimum that is suitable for that gear, the rumble disappears and the car can then accelerate cleanly. BUT! If the car is 'misbeahaving' and I labour it and then accelerate into its proper range, the rumble doesn't disappear as the revs rise but continues, rumbling at a faster pace, and it appears that the boominess I'm trying to describe is this rumble, but 'rumbling' faster as the revs climb. The engine sounds like its labouring no matter what speed its doing. If it is doing it, it grumbles all the way up to the limiter if you let it go that far - there is no point at where it then revs cleanly. Sorry for the poor explanation, but hopefully someone will work out what I'm trying to explain. Could this be an ignition coil problem, or could anyone tell me what is happening? Can coils work 'slightly off' but still be within tolerances so the computer doesn't flag a problem?

Again thanks all.

Ben.

Reply to
Benn65pl

It could be an ignition coil. I've had 2 go over the years , one on a car and one on a bike, and they usually start messing around when they're warm. Electronic diagnosis won't find it unless the coil breaks down during the test. If you temporarily reduce your spark plug gaps and the symptoms lessen a lot then you have a weak spark that is intermittently unable to jump the normal bigger gap.

Reply to
Steve B

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