Flushing oils

My younger son is running an N reg. 306(1.4 petrol) which we have had since

2001. Has been in daily use all that time, (bought at 40k and now at 100k). Only two persistent faults, clevis pin in the check strap of the passenger front door being prone to leap out; a common fault judging by the ease with which I've bought replacements. The other is that it has now twice had airlocks in the cabin heater radiator. It has, right from the outset with us had some oil /water emulsion in both the water expansion tank and under the oil cap. All I have done has been to remove the emulsion. There was no indication that the head had been removed.

I'd not seen the motor for quite a while but the son was home at the weekend and opened his bonnet. Bodyshell paint still in good nick but some rust appearing under the bonnet in the bonnet seams only. I'm hoping he will have another three or four years' use out of it.

Reply to
Clot
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Why would you to flush that. It has become unnecessary to flush an engine nowdays.

With a diesel the oil and engine will be just as black after 1000kms - its a diesel thing.

Just change the oil and filter with the correct grade of oil.

Reply to
Rob

what do you hope it will achieve that an oil change will not?

Reply to
Mrcheerful

In article , Chris Whelan writes

Spotted your name after I'd posted :)

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

In article , Cicero writes

A nine year old French car, by definition, has to be a banger.

I didn't say that it should be discarded, only that you would be unwise to spend a great deal of time and money on engine flushing.

Check the small print. you most probably would have had to have it dealer serviced every time, on time, and the service book stamped, for the warranty to be valid.

Agreed, but not to the extent of wasting money on flushing oils. As others have noted, this is a bad idea as it may dislodge crap in the oilways and cause the oil strainer in the sump to get blocked.

You say it's a diesel. If it's the 1.5 injection engine, the injection pump is known to be a weak point and if it fails, it's a 900 quid repair job.

The French don't make solid, reliable cars.

Hm. 74k in 9 yrs = 8k a year. It's probably been used for lots of short stop/start runs from cold, which is what buggers the engine.

Oh, don't get me wrong. I've driven loads of bangers, some into the ground, but I was realistic about spending money on them. I'd just rather not see you waste money. Your perspective is clearly different from mine, but the best of luck with your new motor.

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

Would that definition apply if it had never been used ?

Andy C

Reply to
Andy Cap

Mike Tomlinson gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

It isn't. In a late 306 it's the 2.0 HDi 90.

Reply to
Adrian
[...]

Only of academic interest I realise, but these warranties are usually for perforation, not corrosion, and only apply if the perforation has serious structural implications.

That, coupled with the onerous inspections required, and the lock-in to approved repairers, make such warranties pretty much valueless.

BTW, I think no two folk would agree on the definition of what is a banger. Those who generally run new vehicles for two or three years, then trade them in, might consider a five year old car to be one, for example.

FWIW, my feeling is that it has more to do with condition than age. If a car is tidy, reliable, and isn't costing silly amounts of money to keep repairing, then I wouldn't call it a banger whatever its age.

Chris

Reply to
Chris Whelan

Chris Whelan gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

Also, in the case of a 306, utterly pointless. They just don't rot.

Reply to
Adrian

Well stick the money in premium bonds, the returns more likely. Unless you're trying to wash mayo out, in which case the cheapest oil available will work just as well, they're pointless.

Reply to
Duncan Wood

Outlook Express? Par for the course if that's what you're using, lol.

Reply to
Conor

Agreed.

Agreed, change the oil every year or ~10k. Wouldn't worry too much about the super-dooperness of the oil, only the grade as the Diesels from this period aren't all that sophisticated.

I think the OP states elsewhere that it's a 1.9. 1.5s came in 106s and diesel is almost not worth it as the 1.1 Petrol will get 45+mpg without much effort.

Ha, I'd take issue with that statement given the fleet of 90s Peugeots that have gone through my family over the last 6 or 700,000 miles or so. (c:

Yes, there have been issues, yes, sometimes they are not really designed to be fixed easily but the 106, 205 and 306s we've had have been solid and reliable.

Incidentally, not a single drop of engine flush was ever used, and a couple of the cars did nearly 200k miles.

The secret seems to be keeping an eye on fluid levels and changing the oil according to the schedule, which was about 9000 miles or so.

If indeed the engine is buggered - which I doubt.

I still think flush is a waste of time, but it probably won't hurt.

Reply to
Douglas Payne

I just don't get that at all. Are you suggesting that usage and maintenance aren't factors in the condition of any mechanical item. Sure, most are probably bangers, but to make that sweeping assertion simply isn't true.

Andy C

Reply to
Andy Cap

==============================================================================

I don't exactly where this will reply will appear but thanks to anybody who manages to see it.

Many thanks to everybody to contributed to this little debate. It seems that engine flushing is now (almost) obsolete except in special circumstances so I won't be doing a flush.

Whilst doing a bit of 'googling' on the subject I came across this bit of advice (in answer to a question on engine flushing) which shows how good advice can become distorted to the point of being dangerous:

"You could fill up with diesel instead of engine oil for about 500 miles then drain and refill with good quality engine oil"

The source of this bit of advice is here in context and it seems to offered quite seriously (3rd post):

formatting link
This appears to be derived from this much better informed source:

formatting link
Scroll to 'Flushing oils' and read the next three paragraphs.

Helpful?

Cic.

Reply to
Cicero

One additonal reason for not using the additive type cleaner - apart from the fact that it probably doesn't work - is that the recycling people don't want additives added to the recovered oil.

Andy C

Reply to
Andy Cap

Douglas Payne gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

It'll be an HDi common-rail.

Reply to
Adrian

Ah, so it will be sophisticated enough, but still not exactly highly stressed in a 306.

Reply to
Douglas Payne

Douglas Payne gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

Indeed. Especially since it'll be the lower-tune, non-intercooled 90bhp version.

Reply to
Adrian

The definition of banger, as said elsewhere is open to interpretation. To me a banger costs less than maybe £1500 or so.

Not many 9 year old French cars cost much more than that. Some are in better condition than others, but it's often easier and cheaper to buy another than fix a duff one. So the truly wrecked examples get scrapped rather than bodged.

A car with a fuelling or ignition problem won't pass an MOT so they don't backfire any more either.

Reply to
Douglas Payne

They may not be as solid as some others but I dispute reliability.

Three sets of friends all had 02 plate Scenics. ALL have bought another newer version within the past year. One, a 1.6 manual, had covered 143k without a breakdown or a major bill. Father in law ran a 97 Renault Safrane auto to 125k with scant regard to servicing with no breakdowns or big bills. I had an 04 Peugeot 206SW HDi which I sold to a work colleague at about 117k. Now showing 140k and still has yet to breakdown. Did have one bill of £600 for a rear axle bearing failure at 96k but servicing dirt cheap using GSF parts.

I suspect other people can quote otherwise, but I have never found French cars to be any worse than German or Far Eastern ones.

Reply to
Doctor D

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