For a ha'porth of tar...

The battery on the 205 has been showing signs of age since we got it, and getting a phone call from 'erself the other day muttering about how it wouldn't start was the final straw.

One new battery, delivered. Easy enough to change, eh?

Would I be writing this if it was?

It's the usual little clamp holding one side of the bottom lip down, whilst the opposite side snugs into a lip on the tray. Except the last numpty to have the battery out forgot the washer under the bolt head. Which meant that the bolt head sat a bit too flush into the bracket. And had been rounded in the past. It's not the easiest to reach, either...

So - time to get medieval on it's donkey. The head of the bolt drilled off easily enough, releasing the clamp and battery. Great. A bit more space to play with.

Except that the lack of space (with battery in) meant I'd drilled the head off-centre. Time to grind the stub flat, punch it central, and drill it again. Fortunately, it went a bit more central (although still not as much as I'd have liked), and gently increasing the drill bit size saw the heat suddenly break the thread loose and the stub wind out of the perfectly re-usable threads.

'course, it wouldn't have been a problem if the numpty who'd been in there last had put a washer and a smear of copaslip on, would it? And, yes, this car DID have a full service history. Must've been the same "professional" that put the sump back on without any (

Reply to
Adrian
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What main dealers get up to never ceases to surprise. The cooling fan viscous coupling on my BMW has signs on the nut of being 'punched off' at some time.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

Left handed drill bits are a great invention!

Reply to
Duncan Wood

"Duncan Wood" gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

Indeed - but because of the corrosion on the exposed portion of the thread, I reckon this wasn't somewhere they'd have been helpful. Winding the thread out "normalways" was the better option here.

Oh, and I don't actually have any LH drillbits. Must rectify that...

Reply to
Adrian

I wasn't going to say anything, but since you mentioned it... :)

Reply to
Gordon H

unless it is a blind hole or a short bolt in a deep through hole then winding it forward is often better, since you won't be trying to pull the rusty threaded part back through the nut/thread.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

I'm not convinced they make any real difference on a thread which is well and truly corroded.

Reply to
Dave Plowman (News)

But doesn't that strip the nut thread? I have used a bolt remover, and that had a spiral reverse thread. ie- it turned anti-clockwise as it was driven gently into the drilled-out bolt, and had a hole for a bar in the end, like a tap wrench.

Reply to
Gordon H

Gordon H gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

Only if you use a drill bit that's big enough to eat into the thread...

This was an M6 bolt, and I think it was a 4.5mm drill bit that removed it. The thread was left perfectly usable.

An easi-out? Again - the reverse-action is only needed if the threaded hole is blind. If the bottom of the bolt is protruding from below the captive or welded nut (like here), and you've not go mullered thread protruding above, it's as easy to just wind it in further. I did try a self-tapper into the drilled bolt, but it wouldn't play.

Reply to
Adrian

Nope, but on one just short of that or less they're great.

Reply to
Duncan Wood

In message , Adrian writes

I'm with you now...

I tried to get a sheared cylinder head stud out once by drilling it and using the easy-out borrowed from the machine fitters at work. The stud was hardened by the head and I broke the drill in it... :-(

I had to smuggle the cylinder head into work and hand it over to the maintenance guys, and oh how they larrrfed. But they got it out...

Reply to
Gordon H

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