Ford Escort 1.4i

Hi Group,

Could someone possible help me?

My 94 Escort has now done about 110k so its time for bit of a tidy up engine wise, the cars in excellent condition just no power any more and it very flat:(

What do i need to look at on the engine side of thinks, I was gonna pull the top end off and re-grind the valve`s in (Or shud i use knew one`s) replace the springs and tappits. Ob new head gasket set etc etc. Full Service.

I`ve checked the compression and everything on there is good

Anybody think/suggest anything else, that needs doing?

Anybody know of a good website to show an engine re-build?

Also how long is a oil pump expacted to last?

Thanks in advance

Regards Si

Reply to
Dongo!
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Could be almost anything. Maybe something as simple as new leads, distributor cover and rotor arm would help. It could even be the fuel pump.

A mobile tuning guy could hook it up to his machine and tell you what needs looking at. Check/clean the injectors.

Not much beats a Haynes manual. Only available as a book now.

Capable of more than 110k, but I'm sure some have lasted only half of that. It's impossible to predict failure accurately. I would leave it alone until the dreaded red light comes on.

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Reply to
DP

Have you done basic things like changing the air filter? I wouldn't have thought that you'd need to be messing about with top end overhauls after just 110K.

Rob Graham

Reply to
Rob Graham

If the compressions are good then I would leave the bottom end alone. Decoking the backs of the valves and generally cleaning up the head and fitting new valve seals will probably restore the power. My experience of these engines is that worn valve stem seals allow a lot of oil onto the exhaust valves, this burns on and forms a sort of umbrella on the back of the valve which reduces exhaust flow a lot. Sometimes these lumps can fall off and jam the valves slightly open !

Otherwise a check round of air inlet system, filters, plugs, ht bits etc. should sort it out.

MrCheerful

Reply to
MrCheerful

I forgot to mention that it is worth removing and cleaning the sump and oil strainer as they (CVH engines) tend to produce flakes of oil which block the oil pick up (if there haven't been enough good oil changes)

MrCheerful

Reply to
MrCheerful

You've never owned a CVH then!! At this mileage, and even if its had very frequent oil changes, and even if the hydraulic tappets are still quiet, you will still have quite serious cam lobe wear. As compressions are good it doesnt point to a valve or piston sealing problem, but if you wish by all means lap in the valves. As a matter of course when dealing with this engine at this mileage I would:

1) Replace the cam, thrust washer and lifters with genuine Ford replacements. Read the instructions or seek advice on how to correctly run in the cam when you restart the engine after the work. Replace the rocker nuts with new- old ones have a habit of coming loose- a cylinder will stop firing- very annoying. 2) Replace all the valve stem seals. Measure the uncompressed valve springs against specs. They're probably ok to re-use unless you habitually rev the engine hard- abit pointless with a cvh! Measure the headbolts too. They are meant to be replaced each time, but are usually within spec so can be reused. 3) Have the head walnut blasted to remove muck from the ports and combustion chambers, and then hot (usually alkali) dipped to ensure all the oil ways are as clear from carbon as possible. If your wife is away- pop the stripped head in the dishwasher to clean off 99% of surface grime. 4) Have the single point injector ultrasonically cleaned- insist they give it an extra long session in the tank. 5) re-assemble the lot with a Felpro or Ford headgasket 'torqued' up with an angle dial, Ford cambelt- check the tensioner & waterpump bearing, new filters, fresh 50/50 coolant, fresh 10w-40, new plugs and leads- and check carefully all the sensors have clean connectors, and outputting the correct values- especially the CTS, ATS and TPS which sometimes go abit out of range. If the original o2 sensor is healthy that can go back. When it comes to firing up I would disable the ignition/fuel breifly and crank it over to get some oil pressure. Then allow it to start but immediately keep the revs to 3000 for 2 mins to initially bed the cam. Followed by 1500 for 2 mins, then 2500 for 2 mins. Basically don't let it idle!

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

Tim (Or Anyone) do you know anywhere online where i can find what the values for the CTS, ATS, and TPS should be?

Ta Si

Reply to
Dongo!

See Dave Baker's site

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for a good explanation of the cam wear on CVH's.

Pete.

Reply to
Pete Smith

I rest my case!!!!!!!!

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

Indeed I haven't.

Rob

Reply to
Rob Graham

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