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Ford Galaxy MK1 2.3 Petrol stalling when hot

Hello all

Got a problem with my galaxy I'm hoping you can help with.

The 1st problem I had was the power dying after about 20-30 mins of driving. After some hunting about in the net the most likely parts were Coil Packs, MAF or O2 sensor. As I was about to go on a long journey I bit the bullet and bought the lot.

That fault went away (pretty sure it was a duff coil pack)

Now after replacing the O2 sensor (did this a couple of days after the MAF and coil packs) I now have a stalling problem when the car is started from hot, when cold it's perfect but when started from hot the engine will just die.

When you start the engine it will rev to 1500 ish and instead of dropping down to about 800 it just drops completely.

If I use some gas and gently let the revs reduce over about 5 seconds it will idle fine. It also drives fine too. never stalls at junctions etc. If it helps, it's an auto.

Now when I replaced the O2 sensor I disconnected the battery so any learned settings would be erased, but even after quite a bit of driving it's still doing it.

Things I've done:

  1. Swapped the O2 seneor back and no difference.
  2. Checked all the vac pipes I can see and all "looks" OK.
  3. When idling disconnected the Idle Control Valve and the engine dies

- so i'm assuming it's OK?

  1. Sucked/blown down the EGR vac pipe and the valve appears to be working because when it's opened on idle the engine runs VERY badly.

The plugs look OK and the only thing i've not changed are the HT leads but I didn't think they would cause this problem.

Any Ideas guys?

Many thanks

Steven

Reply to
steven.langdale
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I would look for an air leak first. Get a tin of carb cleaner and have a spray around the inlet manifolds and any joins etc. which are subject to internal vacuum WITH the engine idling. any changes in engine speed indicate a leak. Next I would check that all oil breather hoses are on and their connections are actually breathing, nect a check on the condition of the throttle plate and MAYBE clean it (care needed as some should not be cleaned)

Reply to
Mrcheerful

Mrcheerful

Will get some carb cleaner and check for leaks.

There only appears to be one breather, at the top of the engine going back into the air box - that is fine and no blockages.

Couple more things i've done that may or may not help...

With the temp sender disconnected it starts up perfectly, no stall, idle is a little over 1000. Plug it back in and it carrys on working. Do these cars have a choke or do they just idle higher when the temp is lower?

took off the Idle control valve, bunged uo the holes and got the wife to start the car (obviously needing gas) and the slowly letting it off. The valve did nothing. I'd have expected it to open right up. Is that right? should it?

I also noticed that even when unplugged it is slightly open.

As I said before it must be at least working a little as when you unplug the cable to it when idling the engine dies.

When the aircon comes one the idle speed dips and recoveres, I thought it was the ICV compensating for this extra load. Have I understood correctly? if so would this indicate it is working?

Thanks for your help

Steve

Reply to
steven.langdale

Sounds like an air leak still.

Reply to
Duncan Wood

the CTS tells the ECU what temp. the engine is and the idle will be varied as needed, in conjunction with all the other variables, if an item is disconnected a reference value is assumed (by the ecu), plugging the item back in may not be recognised till the next reboot.

I would expect it to do something when the throttle is fully released and idle is below spec., holding the throttle open even a little will mean the iacv is not needed (as far as the ECU is concerned)

Sounds normal

sounds correct

Yes. Also have a look for splits, leaks etc after the maf unit in the intake hose.

Reply to
Mrcheerful

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