Meriva temp gauge and rado q's

I've come to the conclusion that it's not worth the effort hacking about getting original equipment ancilary controls to work with replacement audio. If external indicators and stalk controls go dead, than so be it. I rarely use them anyway.

If you are really keen, connects2 is the bunch that makes interfaces.

Change the sender unit.

Does it move up much when idling in traffic? Sounds as though it might be the thermostat on it's way out. I don't remember seeing the temperature rise when idling in a modern car but it's been a long while since I did any decent runs.

[...]

Modern cars don't really have a temperature gauge; it's just a three- state indicator.

The changes in traffic density, coupled with the sophisticated control systems of modern cars means they operate over a much wider temperature range than in the past. A proper gauge would have worried owners pestering dealers with non-existent faults, the the signal to the so- called gauge just shows "below temperature", "above temperature", and "within acceptable limits".

Some cars manage over-temperature situations pretty well themselves. For example, many Ford models of the last decade or so will shut down alternate pairs of cylinders every other firing cycle. The cooling effect of a cycle with air but no heat will bring the engine temperature back down. If the temperature continues to rise, the engine will be shut down before damage is caused.

Some cars already omit a gauge, relying on a warning light system instead. I see this as becoming the norm in future; not many drivers of the last 20 years or so would ever bother to keep a sufficient check on engine temperature anyway!

Chris

I don't think this one has any stalk controls for that (not looked mind) but just the dash display pod where the date changes to radio info when the radio is turned on?

Wouldn't be a major loss as long as it didn't screw up the whole module for just changing the radio (which actually sounds / works ok but I wouldn't imagine has an 'Aux' input for an external player of some sort (so just have to use a cassette adaptor)).

Ok, I may well not bother then but that link is now bookmarked, thanks. ;-)

Cheers, T i m

In case it changes anything ... it's actually reading under 70 deg C under normal driving conditions over a 30 min / ~50 mph journey today (and it wasn't cold out here).

Stop at some slow lights or some stop start traffic and it does start to come up but I can't say even then that I've seen it much above 80?

Do you still think it could be the sender (I'm guessing it shouldn't be to expensive or difficult to change to find out)?

Cheers, T i m

much more likely the thermostat. to check the temp sender just leave it running for half an hour and see what the gauge shows when the fan cuts in and out, should be around 100 degrees. If so then the sender is ok and it needs a new thermostat, good idea to do that asap.

[...]

Neither the gauge or sender are accurately calibrated units. (See my other post.) If it runs fine, has normal fuel consumption, and passes the emissions part of the MOT, my money is on their being nothing wrong.

Chris

Yes ish. ie, from what I've noticed so far (and I only really 'noticed' it because it didn't seem to be getting hot on the gauge rather than a more worrying overheating etc) but I don't think I've seen it much above 80 (which is about central on that particular gauge).

That would be more my thought but I have had senders that went non linear (not that I think they are resistively etc).

Ok and thanks.

Whilst not modern cars either I think the old Rover 218SD and her Belmont have what I would call 'normal' temperature gauges in that they rise into what you might call 'hot' once you have been running for a while and generally stay there then get higher if you are going up a long hill in the summer or sat in traffic , till the electric fans cut in.

Any idea how difficult a stat is on one of them (1.6 8V 04) is to change (it's round Mums again now).

Cheers, T i m

So are you saying that this Meriva may be fitted with that sort of 'gauge'?

I think daughters Ka had that.

Some of them don't take (much) notice of the oil pressure light either ... ;-(

Cheers, T i m

it is listed as a two hour job, so it is probably behind the cam belt

Poop.

So, do some more tests first but if it needs doing should I do anything else at the same time on a 45K miles engine do you think please (belt / idler pulleys / water pump etc)?

I did the pump on the Mrs 1.4 8V engine in the Belmont a long while back that I think may be a similar design and it went ok (all be it 'awkward' with the engine being in sideways (and driving the wrong wheels)). ;-)

Cheers, T i m

A thermostat will do similar things.

Hard to tell which it is unless you look. Does it have a thermostat, has it been removed? thermostats come in temperature ratings and your car it could be 82 degree and should hold that at idle.

The sender units only measure a small temperature range. I usually check the gauge with a meter at specific values in the range. then change the sender if there is variation.

Either not difficult to change and reasonably priced parts.

Just to throw up another problem is a blocked radiator. Is it clear coolant, any scale, sludge,

It may be possible to get the thermostat out from behind the belt, but if you are in there............

cam belt change is listed as every 8 years or 80k and pump, belt and tensioner would be a good idea

Ok.

The car was originally serviced at the main dealers (PNG I believe) and then with a local garage (and good mate). I don't think he's ever had any engine work done (that I'm aware of anyway) but did keep the servicing up to date.

That's what I understood ... that the 'point' of the stat was to get the engine up to, then ideally hold at that temperature (for maximum efficiency). Once at the opening temp it's down to the efficiency of the rad / cooling system to keep it down to that temp and failing sufficient airflow for the electric fan(s) to kick in.

I thought under temperature was only caused by a stuck (open, fully or partially) thermostat?

Ok.

Cheers. Having said that I remember then being very cheap when I was doing my Moggy Minor van. They were a bit more expensive the last time I changed one on the (Mk2 Escort based) kitcar (and that is hardly a high spec / complex motor). ;-)

Hmm, well, Mum said Dad used to drive at typically 50 mph on the motorways and he was always 'casual' when on all the other roads, if that could have any bearing. Since I've been running it about I've been driving it [1] nearer the speed limits and it seems to actually 'go' ok?

When I get it again I'll give it a closer look and take some measurements etc.

Would anyone know if it has a 'simple' ODB interface as I have one of the USB / PC eBay jobbies and so could hook that up if it would give us anything of interest (it worked in the 2001 Corsa).

Cheers, T i m

[1] I was pleased to see the speedo was pretty well spot on according to my GPS today. ;-)

Quite.

Thanks very much for the info.

So, I'm right in thinking that if I was 'in there' doing the stat even at 45K miles it might be as well to do all those even now? None of the bits being 'silly money' etc?

Apart from belt changes on the Belmont and Rover when I got them the one before that was the 2L Sierra (after it snapped about 2 miles from home and I had fitted a new one and was back home in under and hour and for ~ 12 quid.) ;-)

Cheers, T i m

It would be worth doing the whole lot while you are there, the genuine bits are not spiteful and the only really hard bit can be getting the pump out (which if it is stuck, take the hose off the back of the pump and it is possible to get a drift in and whack the impellor to drive the pump out) Get the genuine antifreeze too.

2l pinto belts usually went because the oil was not changed often enough (oil pump gets incredibly hard to turn). which is why they usually went first thing in the morning. and the only special tool needed was a spline bit, but mole grips could do !! The worst bit was when they changed the front pulley for air con, you then needed a special puller.

Some have CD changer inputs that may be hackable for AUX-in, but some at expense that it may be more convenient to just change the radio.

So swap it if you can. I'd recommend a unit with a USB memory stick interface or one that plays MP3 CDs.

Fooling around with an externally connected media player while driving is not really a safe activity, swapping CD's is bad enough...

On an old C-reg golf I had, the oil pressure warning was a buzzer on the rear of the dashboard console.

Had a dual purpose as a G-Force indicator as I accelerated out of the cloud of smoke - that from the oil burning on the outside of the sump.... ;-)