mondeo central locking prob

Jul 04, 2006 11 Replies

hi,



my 98 mondeo 1.8 td est blew the central locking fuse last week. No problem with that I replaced it. But it looks like the rear nearside door caused the problem as this is still dead locked. I now need to get into the door to repair the problem but cannot get to the screws to remove the door panel! any body got any ideas. Is it possible to 'slim jim' this model on the rear door? Anybody got any other ideas?



J

I had this, or a very siliar problem. Fixed it in the end by replacing the door! You need to take an angle grinder to the outside body by the handle to do this.

car butchery at its best!!! no this model carnt be'slim jimmed- lots of shields inside.

is it just that 1 door that carnt be opened? if so then open the other door to gain access(or the boot) climb into car then remove the door trim on the faulty door - yes it can be taken off with the door closed.- carefully praise off the door aparure seal, then using pointy mole grips turn and remove the screws on the edge, it will take a long time but can be done. good luck

Hyethangyow :)

Can you elaborate any? I tried that with no joy.

Hi,

Yes I have full access into the car through all the other doors and the central locking with remote and key works pefect. Can it be slim jimmed from the inside? are the shields outward facing?

James

ok, using a screwdriver praise off the aparture seal(the one which goes all the way around the door)this gives more(slightly)access to the surrounding screws. now using long thin mole grips you can get to the screws and start to turn them,about 1mm at a time (lol) about 15 mins later you should have your 1st screw out....

or.... you could be an animal and distroy the door trim

the shields complety surround the lock and rods to the motor. it has to be removed as one large component(latch, motor and exterior handle)only then can you see the small screws keeping the shield on.

Thanks ford technical for the info so far. This is where I stand so far.

I stripped down the working door to see what problems I would encounter with the duff one. I can see what you mean about removing the door cover and although there is no metal shielding of any description I can see that slim jimming would have no effect on this sealed system. However even with the locking mechanisim operating in the palm of my hand I could find no way of overriding the dead locking mechanism!!! I have checked the connections at the alarm/locking module and the exposed wires under the drivers floor and all seem good. So my question is even if I get into the door how do I defect the dead lock? Thanks mate

James

Have you tried isolating the motor wiring and activating it directly? I'm just thinking out loud here, not tried it.

I'd try breaking out the three main wires and measuring out with a meter. Apply 12v to the motors directly. It could be a loom problem so getting at it inside the door would be worth a try? I have the TIS diagram here if you want it.

Rv!

Hi, whilst I had the good one out of the other door I put a meter on them. with one lead to ground i put the other lead to each terminal in turn (only three wires) whilst isolated, each one showed voltage when it locked and unlocked but not able to take a proper reading as only on for a split second. the wires were yellow/black tracer, white, and yellow. Yes thats an option however due to the fact that the door was becoming lazy on the central locking on cold mornings I got a gut feeling it is the motor inself which is incased in a big lump of plastic.

James

Hi,

has anyone got anymore advice before I start to butcher it!!

James

just did the job and went sweet as a nut. =A360 for a new lock. Old one screw drived apart easily and allowed door to be opened. door panel acme off after removing dor seal and screws with vice grips. all A OK now, regards

james

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