More Rover V-8 questions.

Jan 17, 2009 36 Replies

IFAIK ''universal'' just means that there's no vehicle manufacturer specific plug fitted to the wires, so you need the solder or the crimping tool - but that's what I'm sure you're planning anyway.

IIRC you're after a three wire sensor, one wire will be for the heater - I say you need this otherwise the sensor can cool too much and drop off line during idle.

When I fitted mine I incorporated a little microswitch to remove power to the heater. That was a waste of time because I later learned that the heater current is temp dependant, ie when the thing's effing hot c/o exhaust gasses the heater draws fsuck all current anyway!

Julian.

Nedavno Julian napisa:

I think that you can destroy lambda sensor by soldering, so you should NEVER solder it. It is in the instructions IIRC.

I took it to mean you crimped or soldered the plug - which comes with these universal types - but no harm in emphasising it.

Although don't they have to handle some 400C?

Nedavno Dave Plowman (News) napisa:

=46rom the instructions manual:

"Under no circumstances should the cable be soldered!"

--=20 ___ ____ /__/ / \ ** Registrovani korisnik Linuksa #291606 ** / / \/ /\ \ ** Registered Linux user #291606 ** /__/\____/--\__\ **

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Could mean the plug gets so hot the solder would melt, I suppose. But in any case I always crimp car connectors - I have a selection of crimp tools.

Nedavno Dave Plowman (News) napisa:

I do not think so, I think sensor might be damaged by soldering.

Everything you need is in the box (at least it was in the one I have), you just need original connector.

I'm hoping they supply the cable end connector - since I'll have to make up the loom anyway.

Nedavno Dave Plowman (News) napisa:

I have BOSCH LS02 universal lambda sensor, and it came without cable end connector. But knew that when I placed the order from a local Bosch dealer.

Have the answer now. The older setup has a valve bolted to the back of the plenum which opens at very high vacuum - ie over-run - and lets in more air to maintain combustion. Bit of a moot point whether it's actually needed. On later engines this is replaced by a casting into which an stepper motor idle valve is fitted. The casting appears to simply bolt in place of the old valve. This would allow the removal of the pipework that runs halfway round the engine to the old mechanical extra air valve, so looks like the way to go, rather than fit a stepper motor idle valve from another car which would fit in the existing pipework replacing the mechanical one.

I had to make up a connector or two. I used some very nice little polarity sensitive connectors with tough nylon bodies and gold plated contacts, designed for the model aircraft brigade - very inexpensive.

Julian.

Is it best to use high temperature cable to the lambda sensor given it's in a pretty hot area?

Nedavno Dave Plowman (News) napisa:

You could go to breakers and get used lambda sensor complete with cable and both male and female connectors. Connect female to where-ever you want, and crimp male connector cable to the new sensor's cable. That's what I did. The old one from Audi 80 was long enough for me.

I'd not think it essential. The (generic) probes come with a decent length of wire. (IIRC) I'm sure you'll be able to splice it to your DIY EFI system without any bother - just spare a moment or two to decide upon a decent route for the wire.

Julian.

Since I'll be making a complete new loom for the ignition and injection, I'd rather keep connectors to the absolute minimum. Someone must sell the connectors separately - until mine arrives I won't know what to look for. There's a bit of a problem with breakers - there aren't any decent ones close by. I don't actually know where the nearest largish one is these days.

I've order up the Bosch one which has a socket on the top.

Oh OK. I'd have gone for this sort of think:

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Julian.

I only had a picture of the LS02 - and that didn't show everything. It's arrived and comes with about 1/2 mtr of heat resistant cable fitted which has bare ends - and also supplied is a waterproof connector block. Presumably there are too many different plugs and sockets in use - so being a universal type you're expected to hack off the harness plug and use their connector block. To make life simpler I'll use a standard Bosch waterproof plug and socket - I bought a kit of these some time ago from Vehicle Wiring products.

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