Primera 1.6Si 1997 battery recommendations please

Apr 04, 2004 14 Replies

The battery in my car seems to have died, despite charging the car will not start except with jump leads. It is apparent the battery fitted is not the original but a 26Ah off the shelf flooded battery.



What is the specification of the oem battery, how many Ah, crank current etc? What is the alternator able to source to the battery? Who makes it and what would be a suggested better one? Alternatively one with integral LED condition monitor would be great. There's one in my van an Inca 1.9SDi and it really make weekly and pre-journey checks simple.



Would it be a big or complex job to put the vehicle electronics on another smaller battery and keep this topped up with the solar cell I have fitted. I have loads of Yuasa 12V batteries varied 4-10Ah, cable and terminations kicking about. As the car is off road I'm concerned about the self-drain and drain by clock, flashy lights etc and the key coding for the immobiliser getting wiped. I haven't looked at the circuit diagram of the car yet


The best rule of thumb is:

fit the largest battery that will fit on the tray. For your car go look in the parts book for a battery for the 2litre TD diesel engined Primera.

Tim..

If you need to you might as well just top up the main battery.

Halfords do a guide for all makes & models. You don't have to buy one of theirs, but at least you'll get an idea of the size. The OEM spec should be fine - my dad's Primera is older than yours and still has the original battery.

I just stick mine on the charger at the weekend if it hasn't been used.

Stuart Sharp

Thanks, unfortunately the car is off road at another address miles away and I am still in the process of shopping for a charger. I think the chemistry has gone past charging and I would need a de-sulphurisation phase on any charger I purchase to recover it.

I tried a Bosch 50Ah battery today and it started first time.

In article , "Tim (Remove NOSPAM." writes

I tried a Bosch 50Ah battery today, used the van to charge it up and it started first time. It's still a bit on the small side for the space of tray available.

These sound like burglar alarm etc batteries, and are of the gel filled no maintence type - and as such require special charging arrangements. If the charge voltage goes over 13.8 volts on a fully charged battery for any length of time, they're toast. They're also probably not meant to deliver the high currents needed to start a car, since they wouldn't in practice ever need to for their design applications.

The tray might well be for the diesel version as well, which will have a bigger battery.

You can look up the correct battery spec in Halfords - and while you're at it, buy one. ;-)

They don't love it but if you don't really care about ultimate capacity they're not as easily buggered as people claim, there's a couple running code lock sytems I just paralleled up with the "12V" DC supply a decade ago that are still functional.

In article , Dave Plowman writes

It's not to start the car, it's to run the electronics and low drain systems; clock, flashy light thingies, door locking coding memory...

In article , Duncan Wood writes

That is what am thinking about. How do I prevent the starter drawing current from the Yuasa while allowing the vehicle charging system to charge the Yuasa.

It doesn't matter if it does :-) If you're really worried you wire a normally closed relay with the coil in parallel to the starter.

Depends on what current and voltage that 12 volt supply gives. If it's a regulated 12 volts it won't damage a sealed battery, but neither will it charge it properly. And a 'normal' unregulated 12 volt supply under load from other circuits will probably be held down to under 13.8 volts too.

Assuming the things you wish to power from the smaller battery aren't also needed to be powered from the larger one, a diode. As used for caravan batteries.

Oh it's not evenly vaguely regulated. BUt then it's a code lock system, it doesn't exactly have a high duty cycle.

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