Removing calipers

Google brake hose clamp:

Chris

My callipers also look scruffy. But they work a treat, so I leave them alone. I suggest you do the same.

You clearly are not experienced in brake repairs, so there is only grief in it for you.

Steve

lister (lister ) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

Yes, you can get a tool, kinda like a cross between needle-nose pliers and mole grips, which clamps the flexi closed without damaging the hose.

A quick google for "brake hose clamp" found a stack of suppliers, including

For that price? Not worth the effort.

Anyway, this sounds to me to be a perfect opportunity to change the fluid

- unless it's very new. It should be changed every two years. If it's a hydraulic clutch, do that too.

Trust me, you DO want to do this, but if it's been neglected, prepare for the job to escalate. This IS better than finding out how neglected it is when the brakes/clutch start to Not Play Nicely, though.

I changed the fluid in the Saab over the weekend - the brakes went OK (apart from one rear caliper's nipple being blocked solid) - the fluid was filthy. But the clutch was a 'mare. The fluid started coming through black, then stopped coming through - and the pedal went very slack. Oh, arse. A quick bit of diagnosis - and fluid was getting to the master, but not out. Took the master out, and the inlet was chock-full of goop. Quick spray of brake cleaner, exercise it a bit - and the piston stayed right down the end of the bore. Arsebiscuits. One new clutch master later...

My discs and pads are knackered so they're coming off anyway. From what I've read it doesn't seem to be rocket science. :-/

Many thanks for the info. Yes I was aware I will have to bleed the brakes. Hadn't considered a complete fluid change though. Might be worth thinking about thanks.

Thanks, I will have a squint in the service book to see when it was last done. It needs a service soon anyway so it probably does make sense to do it.

Do you just drain the entire system, and then bleed all four brakes when you refill?

lister (lister ) gurgled happily, sounding much like they were saying:

I bled one front and one rear through until bubbles came through - so the whole reservoir was empty - refilled it, then bled all four until good solid clean fluid came through - make sure you keep it topped up.

If you're taking two calipers off, then just bleed those through until air, then remove.

Might be worth looking very carefully at the flexis, too. If they're anything less than perfect, change 'em.

Should add that this was on a car without ABS. If ABS is fitted, it's usually considerably more involved.

Alternatively undo the master cylinder cap, put a plastic bag or some clingfilm over the threaded top of the reservoir, and screw the cap down. This airlocks it and stops more than a few drops of fluid leaking out when you take the hose off.

I would also tie a plastic bag over the end of the hose just to make sure no grit or anything gets in there during the ensuring thwacking of rusted parts with hammers as you try to get the caliper off.

Plastic bags may still be available from your local supermarket.

Another alternative is to consider doing a fluid change anyway (so just drain all the fluid out) if one hasn't been done for a while since you're going to have to bleed the system in any case.

I had a problem many years ago with a motorcycle disk brake that just would NOT expel all the air. We tried pressure bleeding, reverse bleeding, the lot. We eventually, after much hair loss, discovered that some previous owner had tightened the bleed nipple too much so that the bottom had flattened and did not make a proper seal in the caliper....

I like that advice if it ain;t broke .... would have saved me a fortune in the past everything from cars to toasters lol.

I've always found that bleeding is easier if you retain as much fluid in the system as possible.

With some ABS systems, allowing the pump to empty means using special equipment to bleed it.

Chris

I just nip the hose up with mole grips. You don't need a special tool.

Rob Graham

I've done that with a couple of bits of copper pipe over the jaws of mole-grips to protect the hose, but would never dream of using plain mole-grips on their own.

Also you may find the bleed nipples sheer off in the caliper. WD40 em,=20 leave overnight and remove then block up holes before you start=20 painting.

--=20 Conor

I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't=20 looking good either. - Scott Adams

Bleeding the brakes is littered with pitfalls.

--=20 Conor

I only please one person per day. Today is not your day. Tomorrow isn't=20 looking good either. - Scott Adams

That usually kinks em internally and can create a weak spot.

Thanks for reminding me that I need to buy some Plus Gas (i.e. proper penetrating oil, unlike WD40) for the Land Rover's bleed nipples. One of the buggers sheered off and when I checked my two spare axles, I found they'd all sheered too. And all for the want of a smear of copper grease on the threads.

You can by a brake hose clamp, basically two steel rods held together by a hinge at one end and some sort of clamping mechanism at the other to tighten on the hose. I use a self grip wrench with something soft in jaws to prevent damage to the hose.

Once refitted, you will need to bleed the system.