Rover 111gsi HELP urgent!!!

And I'll retort with the story of a long-legged friend who owned a Mini which had no reverse gear. When a situation required backwards-going he would stick out an ostrich-like leg and push. I never did get to see him doing this though, which is a shame :o(

Si

Reply to
Mungo "one shed" Toadfoot
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I am a member of the emergency services and sorry but these stickers don`t say look for a baby. They say I am a f****it. If anyone of you is wondering why sometimes we miss people, try dealing with a seriously injured person in the pissing down rain, dark and cold with lots of blue flashing strobes blinding you, baby sticker or not, if a passenger has been flung 20 metres over a hedge, we ain`t gonna see ya. Sorry. :-(

Reply to
John Woodhall

I have a similar type of problem. I only tend to have problems starting my Rover 216i when the temperature is above average. I put in the ignition key and turn it. Initially three red lights come on, and the bottom one should then go out rapidly. However sometimes that red light stays on and then the engine will not start. That is, the starter turns but the engine will not start. I then wait say 2 to 5 minutes ... that red light then goes out ... and the car will then start.

Could this also be the ballast resistor? If is, where is that located please?

Reply to
John

Almost certainly not. What do the lights signify? Is it a diesel engine?

Reply to
Simon Atkinson

No - this is a well-documented problem on the Honda D series engine (which is what's in the 89-92 Rover 216 and 416). It's the main relay - normally, you should hear the fuel pump pressurise the system when you turn the key, then then 'Check Engine' light will go out after three seconds, and you'll hear the relay click. If the relay's playing up, you get no click, and 'Check Engine' stays on, and it won't start. Usually happens when hot.

If you're handy with a soldering iron, you can take out the relay and re-work the dry solder joints in it (which is the cause of the problem), and fix it for free. If not, a new relay will set you back about 40 quid...

Cheers,

Brian.

Reply to
Brian Ruth

I didn't write any of the above Brian.

Reply to
Simon Atkinson

Petrol engine ..... the three red lights are, from top to bottom ..... Oil, Battery and "Engine Alert". Initially when turning the ignition key, but not yet engaging the starting motor, all three red lights are on, but usually the "Engine Alert" light rapidly goes out. As we would expect, the Oil and Battery lights stay alight until the engine is actually going.

So this "Engine Alert" light .... in warm/hot weather it sometimes stays on and then the engine will not start. It goes out after a few minutes and then use of the starter motor will start the car.

Any ideas most welcome.

Reply to
John

[snip]

You did. You wrote "John wrote:".

Reply to
David Taylor

I didn't... My newsreader did it and then ran away...

;-)

Reply to
Simon Atkinson

Brian, many thanks! That is so helpful!

Yes using a soldering Iron is no problem, but sorry (and do excuse my ignorance) whereabouts do I find the relay and roughly what does it look like?

Is it behind the central console? If so, the easiest way to gain access to the relay?

Reply to
John

Ah, well - bit of clumsy editing on my part, then. Apologies!

And I wrote the wrong thing, anyway. I meant to say '89-95', not '89-92'. Bah!

Cheers!

Brian.

Reply to
Brian Ruth

It's a little brown (if I recall correctly) box mounted on a bracket behind the centre console - I think you get to it from the passenger side. Doesn't need too much effort to get to it, but you might need to bend the bracket out to see it. Then just a matter of opening it and re-flowing the solder joints.

I don't know why Mr. Honda made such a hash of these relays! The problem affects several Honda models which have the PGM-FI system, too.

If the car's not starting, walloping the console might be enough to get the relay to switch!

Cheers,

Brian.

Reply to
Brian Ruth

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