Rover 214 runs for 25 mins then dies

G'day, Colleague of mine has a Rover 25, 1.4, 1996 model. It will start and drive fine for 20-30 minutes then chug, sputter and finally cut out and it will not restart for approx. 30 minutes. Then, on restarting it repeats the same cycle.

The recovery guy that picked it up off the side of the road said it could be the cat. (blocking up???). To me, it sounds like a failing ignition coil.

Before she spends a pile of cash at a garage - anyone here got an opinion of the above or know of common issues on the Rover that might cause this problem.

TIA Sean

Reply to
Sean
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Crank sensor. Get an aerosol of freeze spray, run it til it conks, spray sensor, if it will immediately restart, you've found the problem.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim (Remove NOSPAM.

I have known this to be rotor arm on this particular model.

Reply to
mrcheerful

dizzy cap - they crack and expand with heat... happened to mine.

Reply to
Tim S Kemp

Wow, a 214 problem that isn't a head gasket

Reply to
Scott Mills

they have loads, but the most common terminal one is head gasket. (water pumps and pipes, manifold gaskets, exhausts, clutches, gearboxes, rotting crossmembers, rotten sills, bent rear arms, rear suspension bushes, alternators, rotor arms, coils)

mrcheerful

Reply to
mrcheerful

Blimey, should count myself lucky mine's not suffered any of the above then :)

Reply to
Andrew Ratcliffe

Thanks for the pointers, all. I'll pass on the info. It does sound like something on the ignition side of things - I'll inform you of the verdict (if I remember to find out myself). Correct answer gets a Rover 25.

Reply to
Sean

I had 2 had gaskets go in 15k miles, and I don't thrash cars...I wasn't happy!

Reply to
Scott Mills

In message , mrcheerful writes

I don't know if there are any similarities with my Honda engined 216 coupe, but it displayed similar symptoms last week. I replaced the rotor arm, distributor cap, HT leads and plugs (they weren't too bad but....) and it turned out to be an engine management module, housed in the distributor. Sixty quid, plus all the other money I don't regret spending. Heh.

Reply to
Wechsel

In article , mrcheerful writes

Apart from that, they're brilliant cars?

Reply to
Mike Tomlinson

No, no, no

-- Malc

Reply to
Malc

I did say it was probably something to do with the grade of water used in the screenwash didn't I?

Reply to
Tim S Kemp

Nah it's a different engine mate. Sounds like yours is a Honda D series unit which did suffer from the problem you describe quite a bit, the OPs engine will be a K series, and like someone else mentioned, my momey's on the crank sensor. Should be too expensive to replace as sensor thingies go, below a ton I should think.

Reply to
Andrew Ratcliffe

You did indeed - reminds me, must mention to my colleague to get the crank sensor checked. All items mentioned will get checked, probably in order of ease of checking/expense involved...

Reply to
Sean

An easy sign of primary ignition failure- i.e. crank sensor, ecu failing to power up etc, is that the rev counter needle will be dead. Its a dead cert if the rev needle drops to zero when the engine cuts out and you keep it spinning over by coasting in gear.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim (Remove NOSPAM.

Correct answer gets

Second place gets 2 :-)

>
Reply to
ph12

In message , Andrew Ratcliffe writes

Thanks for that. So, would the sensor on the Honda unit be likely to have a longer lifetime? Do you know of any other faults for which I should watch out?

Reply to
Wechsel

Not sure to be honest, I just know from years of reading usenet that the ignition module/sensor do seem weakspots on the Honda engine as fitted to the Rover 200.

Try asking the guys in the MG rover forums, nice helpful bunch there :)

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Reply to
Andrew Ratcliffe

Beware that particular forum a few hang about it talk like experts but wear spurs and ten gallon hats.

The 214 is a K series the 16 valves all have a crank angle sensor (CAS) for the ignition pickup but yes it gives a bit of trouble and the symptoms fit -- BUT check it is loss of spark first becase as it cost

30 quid and can be a swine to remove -- I have had to drill one out. They get damaged very easily when the gearbox is removed usually the symptoms don't show up immediately. The single cam K8 version usually has a distrubter module -- same symptoms easier to change.
Reply to
Arm Rotor

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