Rover M16 Engine Gearbox (220/820)

you dont mention if you have the 220 or 820, but i suppose it all comes down to how competent you are. its possible to do it in a day, much less if you know what your doing. you can do it leaving the engine in the vehicle in either case. steve.

First off, thanks for the reply Steve.

220 - sorry !

Its a PG1 gearbox I reckon - ?

I'm pretty happy talking the job on its rather more the "logistics" really of limited space and I don't rally want do it outside !

I've done enough on "the top" over the years (new valves not that long ago due to failed timing belt !) but not so much at the bottom end.

Local garage man who I called round to see earlier has 3.7 hours in his little book for removal and fitting but that doesn't always equate for the home garage mechanic !

I have the Rover manuals but I'm just not too sure how "low" the engine needs to come for it to come off.

Thanks again.

Those engines use the PG1 gearbox same as the 2.0 diesel engine. I replaced the gearbox on my 620 back in January so the following may help (from memory and not specific to the 220):

1) Disconnect battery, starter motor and reversing switch connections. Remove speedo cable drive or sender wiring (depending on if mechanical or electronic speedo) 2) Remove starter motor, air filter housing, battery tray (?). Disconnect clutch cable. 3) Remove crossmember underneath engine. Remove driveshafts from gearbox. See 6) for procedure. 4) Remove steady bar from gear change lever, tap out roll pin from selector shaft and pull gear change lever from shaft. 5) Remove all bolts from bottom of gearbox (two on bottom edge, three near RH side of diff. one or two on front edge) - leave top two bolts in. Note that the bolts are different lengths and the one on the front edge usually has a nut on the end which should be removed first, so be careful to note their correct positions on removal! 6) Remove LH roadwheel if not already done. Remove LH tie rod (bolted between lower suspension arm and front crossmember). Separate lower ball joint and swing the hub outwards - tie driveshaft up out of the way. 7) Put a block of wood on a trolley jack and position under the engine sump. Support the weight of the engine. 8) Undo the nut of the gearbox to body mounting stud (the one with a large washer and rubber mounting underneath). 9) Lower jack supporting engine slightly until the gearbox mounting stud is clear of the rubber mounting. 10)Remove the gearbox mounting bracket from the gearbox. 11)Position another trolley jack with block of wood under the gearbox (or better still, use a crane or similar) to take the weight of the gearbox. 12)Remove the final two bolts at the top of the gearbox. 13)Gently rock gearbox off the dowels - DO NOT LET THE WEIGHT HANG ON THE INPUT SHAFT! 14)Lower gearbox jack/crane and remove gearbox from under the car. 15)Replace driveshaft oil seals before refitting, noting three versions have been fitted over the years.

Darren

Hi Darren,

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Many thanks for the input Darren - appreciated.

Sorry for not asknowledging sooner. Job has been delayed as U've been tied up with other comittments but it will be helpful when I get round to it.

Cheers