Rover 220 diesel pump

I'm looking at a Rover 220 diesel that someone has bought cheap, probably too cheap. Its a bitch to start from cold and loses power at speed with the ( brand new and therefore not blocked) filter in circuit. With the filter out of circuit it just about runs OK, new fuel hoses, no bubbles in the pipes. I think the pump is stuffed and wont lift the diesel from the tank properly. Any opinions as to how s**te these cars/ engines / fuel pumps are will be very much appreciated. Why did they give up using the PSA engine for this lump? Steve the grease

Reply to
Al Gorithm
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Just on the basis of gratuitous prejudice: it's a Rover, ergo, it's s**te. Rovers do one thing well. Rust.

Reply to
Vim Fuego

I agree completely , however there is a serious technical query here. Could you possibly be a little more specific . Steve the grease

Reply to
Al Gorithm

Rover 214 (K Reg) 138k miles and counting. You were saying?

Reply to
gazzafield

Firstly, are you absolutely sure that the injection pump timing is correct? If it's out by a tooth or two it'll produce more or less exactly the symptoms you describe.

Is it the 86bhp version or the 105bhp? They use different injection systems. Easiest way to tell is that the 105bhp lump has an intercooler to the right of the radiator and a drive-by-wire throttle potentiometer attached to the offside inner wing.

As far as the engine and pump go, they're just about unburstable with more or less no common failure points. It was about the best diesel engine of its size on the market when it appeared back in '95, and replaced the PSA XUD for several reasons, not least because it improved in terms of power, torque, economy and reliability (the XUD has several common and well-publicised weak points). I've owned cars in the past with both engines, and I'd pick this one over the PSA unit any day.

Reply to
Andy Tucker

Agreed, as an owner of one. And they do not rust as claimed.

I would inspect the fuel lifter pump grid, if it's been running on duff diesel it couldbe gunged up.

PDH

Reply to
Paul Hubbard

That sounds like a reasonable diagnosis, under the end cover I presume. The car does the oddest thing , thashed it goes well, if however you coast on the overrun, when you press the throttle to speed up again the engine wont pick up but clouds of smoke out of the exhaust, if you then dip the clutch it will eventually pick up again if you pump the throttle and is Ok again whilst being revved............. Oh and if you leave it ticking over it will eventually die , no air in the pipes. Most odd. I wondered about a failed pump shaft oilseal. Thanks for your advice everyone , keep it coming. Steve the grease

Reply to
Al Gorithm

One other I forgot. If the belt to the injector pump is on the way out it can cause problems. When they eventually snap the engine wll idle but as soon as you blip the pedal it will stall.

PDH

Reply to
Paul Hubbard

WHAT?????????????????? The engine will idle with a snapped timing belt???????? I don't bloody think so!

Reply to
SimonJ

Had to read that twice!

I think the op poster meant that when the transfer pump vains break up the engine will idle, but die as soon as you give it gas.

Tim..

Reply to
Tim..

2 belts fitted, one timing, the other off the gearbox end of the engine for the pump as it's not a common rail design.

PDH

Reply to
Paul Hubbard

And you need to read the post again matey.

PDH

Reply to
Paul Hubbard

Why's that then? If the injection pump belt has snapped, and the pump is not turning, how the hell is the engine going to idle?

Reply to
SimonJ

Reply to
Paul Hubbard

I have no idea, it just does. I suspect that the lift pump just gves it enough to idle but anything serious is too much. The injectors will still fire in the correct sequence as on an L series they are ECU controlled solenoid driven, the solenoids are in the pump.

PDH

Reply to
Paul Hubbard

The lift pump will not provide enough pressure to open the injectors.

The 220 Diesel uses a Bosch VP37 pump, which is an electronically controlled rotary distributor type pump, the timing is still set by the pumps rotation. the solenoids on the pump simply control the amount of fuel injected. If the pump is not turning, no fuel will be being injected, and the engine will not idle.

Reply to
SimonJ

And I can only talk from experience.....

PDH

Reply to
Paul Hubbard

Do you mean snapped or failed? If it's jumped & the timings out it'll still idle, if it's snapped then it won't. Unless it's breathing it's own oil but then it's f****d anyway.

Reply to
Duncan Wood

What happened was that SWMBO tried to get it out of the garage but it was idling like a dog, badly, but idling with no power and stalling when you push the pedal.. Took the timing belt cover off and checked it all over, no probs. Eventually a friend said have you checked the injector pump belt? I said, what belt? We took the cover off and the belt was shredded into two halves with belt material all over the place. New belt fitted, all OK.

As I said, I can only go by what has happened to me, it was BTW an L series lump in an R reg motor, an original SDI.

PDH

Reply to
Paul Hubbard

In that case the belt must still have been driving the pump, but the timing had jumped way out.

Reply to
SimonJ

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