stalling, throttle (gas) cuts out and then restarts

Failing crank position sensor?

Tim

'Gas'?

At a guess, petroleum spirit.

Tim

sorry, im from the uk, i just mean accelerator pedle or throttle

t keeps having a fault with > the lambda sensor, which two garages have rep= laced, warning light > still shows on exhaust. theres seems to be be seriou= s fault with the > car as it keeps cutting out when driving , whilst drivin= g some times > it finds no gas(no throttle) and then it recovers and finds = revs > again and can carry on, like its jerky when accelerating, sometimes =

d stalls. > > Other times the car stalls when waiting at traffic lights for= some > time, the car re-starts probably 30-60 seconds after it has stalled= . > > any ideas, garage comes back to me saying the fault maybe with the > = engine causing the emission fault. Failing crank position sensor? Tim

what does the crank position sensor actually do, i haave also been given ad= vice to replace the filter. would that help

'Pedle'?

did they replace the correct lambda sender, that model has two. Crank sensor is a common fault (would match the starting after it cools a bit) and is not easy to get at/change. Perhaps a second garage opinion might be a wise move.

From your description the first thing I would do would be to ensure that all the basics are correct (plugs, filters, leads, exhaust etc. ) then look for intake air leaks, hoses, gaskets etc. Read the codes, clear them, drive it and re-read the codes.

17, 2012 11:10:29 AM UTC+1, Joe 60 wrote: >> On 17/08/2012 11:04, lloydhibb= snipped-for-privacy@hotmail.com wrote: 'Gas'? > > sorry, im from the uk, i just mean accele= rator pedle or throttle > 'Pedle'?

pedal - A pedal is a lever activated by one's foot

It's the modern equivalent of the old contact breaker in your distributor except that not only does it tell the plugs when to spark, it also tells the enjectors when to inject (all via the ECU). Without a known crank position, none of these things can happen.

Replacing the filter won't do any harm if it's a bit choked but it's unlikely to be the cause of your cutting out problem.

Tun

Thinking the same thing is there a cat between with this model, if so could be breaking down and a blockage maybe occurring hence different readings of the two sensors.

This would be right and if the basics ain't right it will cause the Cat to fail by over fuelling.

But not as reliable?

What!

What on earth is the basis for that statement? Mechanical contact breakers belong in the Stone Age. They were quite possibly the biggest cause of electrical breakdowns, and required frequent maintenance and replacement.

If your intention is to decry all that is new, and imply that 'the good old days' were a better time for motorists, you are very deluded.

Chris

You must be very young. Contact breakers were crap in the extreme.

Tim

At least I can trace problems, and fix them without any equipment.

Regular service and perhaps more reliable and cheap - unlike coil packs spitting the dummy.

Have a couple of cars with GL19 contact sets BTW.

I can do a whole replacement of the ignition system for half the price of one coil pack. Plugs,points,leads,condenser, cap, rotor and coil.

I only know that in the 30 years I had contact breakers not once did they go faulty between changes.

Of course if you left them in for 30,000 miles you could expect problems.

That's another thing too. Not once have I ever had a tin can coil go faulty on me.

[...]

I've been playing around with the infernal combustion engine for more than half a century. I've done pretty much everything, up to and including shell-up rebuilds of rally cars, and tuning of motorcycles that I raced. If I had to pick the worst abomination, it would be the mechanical distributor.

Many, many breakdowns have been down to points failure on well-maintained vehicles.

Even when they (just about) worked, things like the advance curve would vary wildly between two ostensibly identical engines.

When you had a properly carried out service on a car from the era of mechanical contact breakers, it immediately ran much better. A very large proportion of that improvement was down to replacing the points, together with the correction in ignition timing and dwell angle that would bring.

With a modern car, it feels no different after a service, because little that affects the running will get out of adjustment, and those things that do will be compensated for by the ECU.

When things go wrong with a modern car, it's easy to loose sight of how good they actually are.

Chris

A very large

That could be a lot of why I never had any trouble in that area. Most people did not have a clue when it came to setting points up and usually just screwed in a new set and hoped they worked. Being from an electronic background they were always meticulously set. It was the one bit of a car engine that I understood.

I know that if I had to drive something across a desert with minimal equipment/spares that I would feel safer with points and a carburettor and a manual gearbox than with injection and electronic ignition and an electronic gearbox. Despite which is more reliable in 'normal' conditions. KISS