Stubborn crankshaft pulley bolt - any tips?

Well I wouldn't suggest drilling it out to 8.5mm, but if you're carefull you should get a 6mm bit down the centre.

DO NOT do it any more!!!!

Many Fords, Pugs, & Rens to merely touch the surface have NO keyway on the crank pulley (and cams for that matter) and are freely floating when the bolt is slackened.

Jamming a t-bar and flicking the starter WILL cause piston / valve contact since you are turning the engine over, rather than the bolt.

Tim.

[...]

I understood Mr C to mean that he uses a pry-bar to jam the flywheel rather than a holding tool. I don't believe he was advocating using the starter motor to undo the bolt.

Chris

I think he meant locking the flywheel.

Indeed. I've gone no further with the starter method now.

Trick i learn't years ago 'tighten' it first

I thought I was clear enough. Lock flywheel using a locking tool or a prybar and undo the bolt with a breaker bar (or a larger impact wrench)

I thought I was clear enough. Lock flywheel using a locking tool or a prybar and undo the bolt with a breaker bar (or a larger impact wrench)

Do not spin the engine to undo the bolt on this engine (I am not a fan of that method having seen injuries and breakages when it goes wrong)

You were, thanks.

I've taken the starter off and it's a bit of a tight squeeze to get anything up/in there so I've ordered the Laser locking tool and will bolt that in when it arrives.

You were very lucky that your attempts with the starter did not work. Having the right tool for the job will usually make it easier, and having the time to get it, helps too. I have sometimes had to buy a special tool for a one off job and re-sold it on ebay after use.

That has to be one of the most unlikely looking tools I've seen in a while. Judging from the reviews and your experience, seems to do at least part of the job.

Rob

I couldn't agree more! I'm not normally one for scrimping on tools but when it comes to those that I'm expecting to use only once in a blue moon I'll certainly give the low cost option a try if I can't justify/afford a more e xpensive option[1].

I can't remember what I bought this one for - seized bolts on a knuckle/str ut I think which I just couldn't shift with my usual breaker bar. I could n ot believe it when this thing hammered the thing off with barely a grumble.

I've used it for a whole bunch of stuck nuts/bolts since, indeed it seems p referable to use this from the outset if in doubt so as not to unnecessaril y stress any components by hanging off my breaker-with-scaffold-extension b ar and other knuckle-scuffing techniques.

One notable drawback is its bulk though and whilst it can be slow (one stri ke every couple of seconds or so) that aspect doesn't bother me - if it fre es the fastener without stress I'm happy to wait.

I've obviously now found its limit though... I was expecting it to free the crankshaft bolt off no problem thinking its nature of operation would be i deal so I'm a little disappointed on that front...

Mathew

[1] It's funny though, I can list several cheap tools that I've bought for supposed one-offs - this impact wrench, angle grinder, SDS drill - yet for some reason they've all turned into my often-used tools!

Update:

It's off! :-)

The flywheel locking tool arrived today so I went to fit it and, unsurprisi ngly of course given I was depending on it, it didn't. The bracket married up with the starter bolt hole fine but the locking protusion didn't quite r each the flywheel... I must say that the flywheel is very deep inside the b ell housing and so it was proving difficult to work out how to jam somethin g else in there without risking it slipping (and taking a tooth off knowing my luck).

So I went to Plan B and got the Dremel out. I figured that if I cut into th e 'washer' of the bolt then it might lossen it's grip, particularly if I co uld get all the way through without touching the pulley.

Two Chinese 'dremel style' cutoff discs later and I was nearly through so I gave the 12v impact wrench another go in case the clamping force had alrea dy been reduced. 50-odd impacts later and I swore I saw it turn ever so sl ightly. A bit more persistance and it finally gave in - and I could just sp in it out with my fingers so there was no corrosion or anything holding it in place.

I've fitted a new water pump and tensioner and will do the belt and timing tomorrow. Given I don't have the means to lock the flywheel I shall be rely ing on what is touted as a locking pin supplied in the Laser 4347 kit which is slightly fatter than the timing pin. I'll be praying that the pin doesn 't bend otherwise it won't be coming out of the block again and the cranksh aft will be in a bit of trouble!

Mathew

the crank pushes straight against the pin when doing up the bolt, so there is no danger of the pin bending.

Nice one.

I was hoping that will be the case...

I had read of others managing to bend the locking tool but I think now that the mistake they've all be making it use to to *undo* the bolt thus I guess the crank is pushing on the side of the pin rather than on the end.

Thanks everyone for the suggestions and advice - finger's crossed my next post will be my last and not a query regarding bent valves!

Mathew

... when turning *counter-clockwise* I mean.

Update:

It's off! :-)

The flywheel locking tool arrived today so I went to fit it and, unsurprisingly of course given I was depending on it, it didn't. The bracket married up with the starter bolt hole fine but the locking protusion didn't quite reach the flywheel... I must say that the flywheel is very deep inside the bell housing and so it was proving difficult to work out how to jam something else in there without risking it slipping (and taking a tooth off knowing my luck).

So I went to Plan B and got the Dremel out. I figured that if I cut into the 'washer' of the bolt then it might lossen it's grip, particularly if I could get all the way through without touching the pulley.

Two Chinese 'dremel style' cutoff discs later and I was nearly through so I gave the 12v impact wrench another go in case the clamping force had already been reduced. 50-odd impacts later and I swore I saw it turn ever so slightly. A bit more persistance and it finally gave in - and I could just spin it out with my fingers so there was no corrosion or anything holding it in place.

There should be thread lock on the bolt according to A/D. tim.

I've got an Autodata printout but don't remember seeing any mention. Might you have checked a different model? This is a 1.25L from 2002, but still a Mark 4 (so must be one of the very last).

If it is warranted, and noting that I'll hopefully not need to remove it ever again given the 10year/100000mile timing belt schedule(!), any particular recommendation? I've never used threadlock before and see there are a number of types available.

Mathew

Any chance you could check that for me Tim?

My printout from Autodata definitely doesn't mention thread lock, nor does the Haynes manual. They both merely stress the importane of torqueing the (new) bolt to 40Nm + 90 degrees.

I can definitely confirm that the original bolt (from new) didn't have any on either.

Given the significance of this issue the job is on hold for now so if you could check your reference that'd be appreciated!

Mathew