Tools for hub nut removal

The 1/2" drive will be ok up to maybe 250 ft lbs but if the nut is done up to squillions of ft lbs you'll need the 3/4 drive. The 12 point socket should be fine though. Why not just try it first.

-- Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines

================= You don't say what the torque is for your hub nut so a precise answer isn't really possible.

However, I used the same tools as you propose using (3/4" bar with adapter to 1/2" impact socket + long tube) for both rear hub nuts and front drive shafts with torques of 103 / 181 ft/lbs ( 30mm and 32mm nuts) respectively. If your nuts are as much or less torque than mine then you should have no problems undoing them. If they're much more than my higher figure then you might consider getting the 3/4" drive impact socket to be on the safe side.

Cic.

Thanks for the tips lads. The torque for the hub nut is 160 Nm which is around 120 ft/lbs I think.

respectively.

One more question (probably stupid) What is an "impact socket" The socket I have is a 12 point Draper Expert chrome vanadium socket. Would this be suitable?

brian

=============== It's a common name for your '6 point' socket. It's 'impact' because it's usually used with an impact / air wrench - the kind of thing you see used by tyre fitters to remove wheel nuts.

I think your 'Draper 12 point socket' should be suitable anyway. Try it and see how it goes, and probably save yourself some expense.

Cic.

I would also suggest a proper impact socket is made of a slightly different spec material, than one designed for hand use. A tougher material that's less likely to crack when being hammered by an air wrench. Mike.

=============== I agree - all mine are heavy black metal and seem to give a better grip even when used by hand. I think they're generally better unless you can't do without the look of polished chrome vanadium.

Cic.

Also, wouldn't a chrome one be a little dangerous in an impact wrench? I'm thinking chrome finish flaking off because of the repeated "impacts", hand near socket, whoops no flesh left type scenarios.

Oh FFS, is that all? That's not even tight. Stop being a big girl's blouse and just get on with it. 250 ft lbs and over is tight. All this fuss and wittering on about 3/4" drive sets and impact sockets for a bloody nut that's not much tighter than a wheel nut.

-- Dave Baker - Puma Race Engines

LOL!! :O)

Provided your hub nut has not been nipped up by a gorilla a 1/2 true hex socket should be adequate and a bar of about 3 foot (including tube) will do the biz if its siezed or 300lb monkey has been at it air impact will shift it a friendly spanner man will usually do it for beer money if you ask nicely Derek

You beat me to it Dave. Not a tight nut. Hell I've undone nuts tighter than that with a 3/8 drive socket! (probably not advisable though....)

================== The OP is simply making sure that he has the correct tools for a job which he probably hasn't done before. If everybody did the same we wouldn't have so many grossly over-tightened or rounded off nuts. Presumably he's learning how to do this job for the first time and in this case he's learning how to do it properly. That's pretty sensible.

Cic.

so why not make the point of asking "I'm doing a cv boot/joint on a cavalier and I have this that the other etc what size drive do I need to be using and what torque should it go up to?"? the poundage he's referring to doesn't seem to be much so he may be ill informed :)