Tyre face penetrated - vulcanise or leave?

That was my conclusion after reading replies... At least I can ask that directly of the tyre shop and see what they say, with the benefit that they can see the damage and the object (I kept the screw)... Armed with knowledge, so to speak...

If I were single and the only one driving the car, I wouldn't worry much either. I'm paranoid because of my family - it does that to a man ;->

I used to fix my own cars all the time (head removal, brakes, electrics etc) - with the family and lack of time, I've been out of the game for 5 years, so my mechanical judgement has gone to pot... Must do more jobs myself to get me confidence back.

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S
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Slow ones aren't much fun on either end as you tend to find out about them only on a corner. However, given that if said screw had fallen out of its own accord you'd never have known about it & the damage would be the same it's unlikely to be an issue.

Reply to
Duncan Wood

I've had a slow flat develop on the front and finally give out at about

50-60. I noticed due to massively increased rolling resistance and at some point, the noise. Luckily I got onto the hard shoulder before sustaining any rim damage. In fact, if I hear anything suspicious these days, I drop the clutch and see how well the car keeps rolling - my standard test :) [Wibbling off topic]

Problem with blowouts, ice and other catastrophes is that one seldom gets to practise handling them before you're in a real situation. Last time we had major ice, I took the wife upto a big wide empty side road and made her practise controlling skids. ABS took all the fun out of it though :( But at least she knows what it feels like and will be less likely to panic.

Really don't know why skid pan work isn't part of the driving test - it should be IMHO.

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

In message , Tim S writes

You are perfectly entitled to be paranoid when it comes to the safety of your family. Rather that than to be lax.

FWIW, I agree with most others here who think it will be fine. Be aware that some tyre shops will advise you to change it regardless. In fact you could end up needing 4 new tyres, brake pads and discs, exhaust and battery ;)

Reply to
Paul Giverin

Thanks Paul,

I'm off to see whoever is open (unless it's Kwik Bodge, I do have standards!) and see what they think. With all the opinions here, I'm fairly well genned up now, so they won't be ripping me off at least.

I'll let you know what they say. Thanks for all the opinions :)

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

The message from Paul Giverin contains these words:

For the seven quid or so it costs to repair I'd rather get it fixed.

Reply to
Guy King

7 round ones? OK, thanks. If they say 25 I'll know I'm being done.

Everywhere's closed today, except Kwik Fit (like I said, I have some standards) so have to wait until tomorrow...

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

In message , Guy King writes

If it means drilling all the way through a tyre that isn't actually holed all the way through, just to put a plug in....... I'd rather leave it.

Reply to
Paul Giverin

The message from Tim S contains these words:

That was about two years ago around Telford.

Reply to
Guy King

So would I. Why deliberately puncture a tyre that doesn't leak? Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

Good arguments both ways.

Drilling and plugging would protect the steel if exposed (I don't think it is after further checking). But it is also further damaging the tyre to facilitate the repair.

Anyway, with the benefit of being able to see the object removed and the tyre, the bloke at Just Tyres concluded it was OK to drive on it.

Thanks for the opinions - I take the JT blokes opinion not in isolation but together with all the ones from here - and have decided to use it, but check it regularly for untoward things. I suspect the rubber under the tread is thicker than I gave it credit.

Cheers folks,

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

& you've found an honest tyre fitter.
Reply to
Duncan Wood

I knew they were OK - bought my last set from them, and used them many times in the past. In all, I've found Just Tyres to be a pretty reasonable bunch over 2 or 3 different branches - a significant step up from some others(!).

Cheers

Tim

Reply to
Tim S

Personally I'd say get it patched - its about $20 worth of work and could save you the tyre. I left one in and it started to leak after a month or so. Shortly after I developed sidewall cracks due to it sitting on underinflated tyres.

Reply to
Coyoteboy

The moral there seems pretty clear. Even looking at a tyre should tell you if a tyre is underinflated enough to cause cracking., or sidewall damage. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

Not really, i have 215/40/17s and they can be at 20psi and look perfectly normal, yet still be damaging the sidewall.

J
Reply to
Coyoteboy

KrapFit used to do free puncture repairs but when I went in last they wanted 15+vat and the local independent wanted 17+vat.

Reply to
adder1969

I have 255 x 40 x 17's, running at 32psi. I might not notice a drop of 5 psi visually, but I'd certainly notice it when driving, but 10 psi would certainly be noticeable just by looking at them. Mike.

Reply to
Mike G

Depends on your sidewall construction, my cheaper federal tyres have a stiffer sidewall than my old expensive continentals - 10psi on the contis was very noticable. OF course driving both would be noticable but my car spends long periods of time stationary as its my toy(ota) thats only for fun and weekends. Also depends on the weight of your car

- mine only tips the scales at 1300Kg, if yours is heavier it would affect the sidewall flex too.

Reply to
Coyoteboy

BMW 525i with M-Tech suspension and wheels, with Conti's all round. Mike.

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Reply to
Mike G

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