Vectra conks out - ECU error code 0100

Jan 03, 2005 8 Replies

I've posted the following to the Vectra-Sport forums, but I haven't got any replies yet so I'm hoping you can help. The post is in three parts:



(First post) Hello all.



Today after taking my sister-in-law home from hospital (brother not well) I was waiting at traffic lights in neutral and my RPMs went down from 600 to 300 then up again right away (just before it was going to stall) then about 10 seconds later it did the same, then 10 seconds later it did the same.



I then took her home and carried on, I slowed down for an ambulance to overtake me and the engine stalled. I thought nothing more of it until I got to a roundabout near home and it stalled again.



I shoved my foot down and got home and just as I was about to turn into my road it stalled, ditto when turning around, but this time I left the engine stalled for 30 seconds and then started it up again and parked the car, and it stalled, so I left it for another 30 seconds and took the key out of the ignition.



I took out the surface below the handbrake to get to the error reporting socket and stuck a metal paperclip in it, shorting pins 5 &



6 I get the following ECU flash code:


0100 repeating. That is with the engine off. However, now, it appears, to keep the engine on I have to keep my foot on the accelerator.



According to the Topbuzz website a Siemens SIMTEC 56.5 fault code 0100 means "Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor"



Not being terribly car-minded this means little to me, however, I understand it's the bit that tells the engine how much air to use, or something similar.



Is this a problem that I am likely to be able to fix for myself (I can top up oil, put petrol in the tank, top up the screenwash and I even changed a dead rear brake light bulb yesterday!) or is this something the RAC will be able to fix easily or should I get it to a local dealer (and will it be cheap to fix, in parts and labour terms!)



Thanks for your unending help!



(Next post)



Hi again.



I grabbed my Haynes manual out and saw where it was, looked along the line and looked at the air filter, took it out, nothing wrong with it, put it back, then yanked the plug out for the MAF electrics and saw 4 pins, wiggled it a bit, shoved it back in and it now works.



Cured?



(Next post)



No, not cured. I was driving just now and while I was slowing at traffic lights the car conked out. I started it again and carried on.



Then on a quiet piece of road I pulled out the clutch and the revs dropped from 2000 to 600 then to 0 after restarting I kept my foot on the accelerator while changing gears.



While parked outside my house with the ignition on the RPM hunted from



900 to 400 to 600 and down again, then up again and after three minutes of hunting it conked out. Paperclip still at hand, ECU code
0100 - Mass Air Flow Sensor. It's a shame that I can't see which conk out it refers to (There weren't any other errors, like "engine not running" or anything, just 0100 repeating.)

Any ideas? Although I don't have a large set of results to draw conclusions on, it was fine when cold, but when the engine is warm it it decided to stall.


--Nick.


The symptoms you describe are typical of an engine that requires a new idle air control valve, and to have the throttle valve reset to give a higher base idle setting. This is an involved job, and requires use of a diagnostic computer to interface with the vehicle ECU and monitor engine parameters while the throttle is being reset. An oil trap is also installed in one of the crankcase breather pipes to prevent contamination of the new idle air control valve.

As a temporary measure, the idle valve and throttle body could be cleaned out with carburettor cleaner, although if it does make a difference, it will only be temporary.

When I last carried out this modification, a new idle valve was £140+VAT from Vauxhall. Labour was 1 hour, and about £20 for other parts such as gaskets and the oil trap.

HTH

Anthony Remove eight from email to reply.

Thanks for your reply. Someone on the Vectra-Sport forums has suggested that I get one from a scrap yard incase the wiring is faulty.

Also, are the MAF sensor and "idle air control valve" the same thing?

--Nick.

Nick wrote on Mon, 03 Jan 2005 20:58:34 +0000:

Er, just one, rather obvious idea. Try actually replacing the MAF sensor?

Depending on the type, new air-flow sensors aren't massively expensive and it's possible you may not have to go to a main dealer to get one (the local parts factor near me stocks coolant temperature sensors for engine-management systems). As you've already located it then you'll have a good idea what you need to do to remove and refit it. I wouldn't have thought that the RAC would do this for you, and you've probably already worked out that you don't need the dealer to be involved at this stage.

There has been mention of the idle-speed control valve; this is a possibility but almost certainly would be a dealer-only part so it'd be worth replacing the MAF first to see if that cures it, especially as that's what the ECU is reporting (and let's face it - is the first thing the dealer would replace after hooking up their diagnostic tester)...

Final thought: have you checked for air leaks between the sensor and the engine itself? A split pipe or blowing (sucking?) gasket will allow a different amount of air into the engine to what the sensor is reporting and that could fool the ECU into thinking it was a sensor fault...?

Darren

I haven't checked anything yes - I'll have a look at the area around the MAF sensor today and then have a look to see if I can see anything wrong.

I'll report back tonight or tomorrow.

--Nick.

Good suggestion, the rubber hose connecting the MAF to throttle body was badly split on the wife's Vectra when we bought it (not that I knew how it drove as it had shed it's timing belt!). A new replacement from Vauxhall was about 5 quid. New MAFs are around 150 I think, tune-parts may sell them cheaper.

Be worth spending a few minutes talking to a breakers yard, got an ICV from there (previous posts here have introduced this as a possibility) for a few quid; probably only cost a couple of extra quid to bundle that with the air pipe (with MAF embedded if this is DIY dismantling) - waved in front of the face of the breakers they shouldn't charge much.

FWIW, if it is an ICV (easily checked with £5 can of carb. cleaner), and you want a new replacement, don't just try Vauxhall, try some independent motor factors - picked one up for a Ford Ka for a very reasonable £70.

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